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HIGH POINT — Former manager Mena Parrish bought the J.H. Adams Inn this fall. Constructed in 1918, the Italian Renaissance home, listed on the National Register, ranks among the most elegant restaurant settings in the Triad.

Upon entering, a dark, clubby bar-library lies to the left. Down a short hall, you descend a staircase into the peach–colored dining room.

Although ownership has changed, executive chef Steve Smid is a constant; he has been at Hampton’s about four years.

An initial perusal of the wine list reveals fairly pricey selections. Bread service, arriving shortly thereafter, provides flavorful, 2 inch thick roasted-red-pepper foccacia.

Soups cost $5 for a cup or $7 for a bowl. Tomato, Shrimp and Crab Bisque is drizzled with basil oil, rich and creamy, bearing tender bits of shellfish. Sweetish, creamy Butternut Squash Bisque hosts pieces of pancetta along with goat cheese. Both arrived hot.

Chopped Salad ($9) arrives in a beautiful presentation of shredded iceberg enclosed in sliced cucumbers, joined by applewood bacon, avocado, tomato and basil, dressed in light Champagne vinaigrette, crisp shoestring potatoes on top. Hydroponic Bibb Salad ($9) is composed in the center of the plate. Sliced pears are positioned at each corner, decorated with cubes of beets, plus goat cheese, smoky country ham, and almonds, all dressed in warm balsamic vinaigrette. Grilled Caesar ($8) uses Romaine scattered with Parmesan Reggiano cheese, plus dried tomatoes and polenta croutons. Salads are served on chilled plates.

Sesame Tuna Tartare ($13), decorated with white sesame seeds and sesame oil, plus pickled ginger and honey-wasabi, is flanked by avocado, cucumber, and seaweed salad, steamed edamame on the side. Fried Chesapeake Oysters ($11) are large and juicy, with garlic sauce, a succotash of blackeye and green peas, corn and diced tomatoes alongside.

Entrees are quite impressive. Pork Rib Chop ($25), bone in, is 11/2 inches thick, tender and juicy, yielding fabulous flavor. Red and green apple chutney and crisp fried sweet potatoes round out a well-conceived presentation.

Seared Ahi Tuna ($26) bears a crust of black and white sesame seeds drizzled with a little sesame oil over a Thai peanut glaze; dabs of wasabi paste add color as well as flavor.

Rosemary Grilled Shrimp ($26) are large and tender. White cheddar grits cake with andouille sausage, tomatoes and corn is ladled with collard greens cream sauce — novel and flavorful.

Pan Seared Jumbo Lump Crab Cake ($28) is complemented by a lush lobster corn cream sauce.

Grilled Black Angus Filet ($33) yields significant depth of flavor, cooked precisely as ordered, complimented by a dried tomato and artichoke basil bordelaise.

Braised Colorado Lamb Shank ($28) is huge, almost falling off the bone tender, moist and richly flavored, supplemented by cranberry mint balsamic jus. The lamb and pork are placed over mashed potatoes. Other vegetables include broccoli rabe, pickled okra, fresh carrots, red pepper, braised red cabbage and turnips. Plates are heated when appropriate.

Vegetable assemblies include beets, asparagus, and a large, fresh carrot slice along with mashed potatoes. Neither the potatoes nor anything else was oversalted — a shocking, positive omission.

Red Velvet Coconut Cake ($7) is graced with cream cheese icing, coconut flakes and strawberries in the corners, the plate splashed with chocolate caramel sauce.

French press coffee yields flavor that ranks among a handful that earn praise.

Although wait staff knowledge was solid and deliveries to my table were appropriately paced, an adjacent table waited more than an hour from order to delivery, and when their food arrived, they reported it was hot on the outside, cool in the center. I did not “count” that in the rating because I could not determine firsthand how management handled a complaint, but it concerned me. My own experiences, however, were exceptional.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 25 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send email to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com. To find his recent columns, visit GoTriad.com.