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CLIMAX — First, thanks to reader Jonathan Maxwell for recommending Four Winds Cafe. This property was formerly the Southeast Truck Stop. Conversion to a cafe was completed in 2006.

Proprietors Peggy and Steven Holmes moved to southeast Guilford County a year earlier when they purchased a horse farm in the area. She is the floor manager and decorator. He was the chef at Stouffer Plaza, then corporate executive chef for R.J. Reynolds and, later, chef at The Maze and The Vineyards, all in Winston-Salem. He has also given ice-carving demonstrations at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. A few years ago, I reviewed his work at The Vineyards (RIP, alas) very favorably.

The setting at Four Winds remains very casual, but the food compares favorably to fine-dining establishments that charge much higher prices.

I would not expect a wine list in a place like this to be extensive, but a surprisingly large number of good selections are offered at very reasonable prices.

We tried a couple of starters. Four Winds Spinach and Artichoke Dip ($8) bears a bread-crumb crust, covering a blend of cream cheese, goat cheese and Parmesan. Crisp Parmesan toasts are served on the side. The combined effect is quite lush. Buffalo Shrimp ($8) are large and tender, bearing a spicy-hot coating, its impact softened by mellow blue cheese dressing. Celery sticks complete the presentation.

French bread is homemade.

Regular entree prices include both a bowl of soup and a salad, making first courses almost superfluous, however. Cream of Mushroom soup hosts pieces of fresh mushroom in a rich, creamy base. Salads of iceberg and Romaine lettuces plus a little spinach include zucchini, squash, red pepper and fresh mushrooms, served on chilled plates. All dressings are made in-house. I was especially drawn to the creamy balsamic vinaigrette.

Eggplant Rollatini ($16) is based on thick slices of baked eggplant, layered between a blended cheese filling and homemade marinara sauce, over rollatini pasta. Leftovers provided dinner for two the next night.

Chicken LaRue ($16), named after Peggy’s champion horse, uses natural breast meat sauteed with fresh mushrooms, spinach and sun-dried tomatoes, well-served by Dijon cream sauce.

Crab Cakes ($23/two) are coated in crisp breading, enclosing some lumps of crab in fairly heavy filler, accented by homemade, tangy remoulade. I considered these good, although I would not rate them among the area’s best.

A limited $10 menu (available all night, an accommodation to the economy) includes either soup or salad (but not both). Topsy Turvy sauteed beef filet tips are just a little firm, their flavor enriched by onions and mushrooms in brown gravy over rice pilaf. Jamaican Pork Tenderloin is dusted with Jerk seasoning and grilled, joined on the plate by great shoestring sweet potatoes. The meat emits solid pork flavor, and the spices give it a nice kick.

Vegetables with entrees are fresh –– zucchini, squash, red pepper, a little spinach and onions.

Dessert offerings change daily. Recent choices (all $4.25 at dinner) have included Chocolate Cheesecake, Raspberry Cheesecake, Blueberry Bread Pudding (voted best dessert in the Triad several years ago), Cranberry Double Fudge Brownies with ice cream and Key Lime Pie. A forthcoming weigh-in for an annual physical prevented me from sampling any, but I will remedy that when I go back.

The drive is off the proverbial beaten path for in-town Greensboro residents, but it’s not excessive. Given the value here, I would return anytime the schedule allows. New menu items will have been added by the time this review appears.

John Batchelor has been reviewing restaurants for more than 25 years. His reviews run every other week in Go Triad. Contact him at john.e.batchelor@gmail.com. To find his recent columns, visit GoTriad.com.