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HIGH POINT — Emerywood is L-shaped, a bar flanking to a long dining room. Black walls are decorated with original art and painted plates.

The wine list earned compliments, but bread arrived doughy, albeit with good herbed olive oil.

I was happy with most starters. Blackened Ahi Tuna ($9.95) was tender, deep red, no gristle, stacked over kimchi. Fried Oyster Salad ($12.95) featured tender, moist oysters, crisp bacon and killer Roaring 40’s blue cheese, plus Roma tomato, shallots and fried capers over mixed lettuces, dressed in excellent walnut vinaigrette. Breading on the oysters tasted almost cake-like. In Three Salad Sampler ($8.25), we chose Tuna, Pimento Cheese and Rosemary Chicken — all quite tasty, with the latter earning particular praise.

Sometimes, I thought the kitchen needed a good editor. Calamari ($7.95) was marinated in buttermilk and fried, served with Chorizo sausage chips, kidney and garbanzo beans and sweet basil ragout. The flavor of calamari didn’t come through. Crab Dip ($7.95) tasted more of cheese than crab, very salty.

Two soups ($3.75/coffee mug, $5/bowl) continued positive impressions. Shrimp and Grits Chowder — chicken stock and cream blended with roux — was augmented by small shrimp and accented by a little red pepper. Low acid, fresh Tomato Basil with cheese oozed mellow flavors.

Kobe Burger ($13.95) was large, exuding deep flavor from a crusty exterior and juicy interior, with applewood smoked cheddar, caramelized onions, black truffle mayonnaise, lettuce and tomato, plus great fresh-cut truffle Parmesan pommes frites.

The crust of Pepperoni and Italian Sausage Pizza ($9.95) was kin to cracker. The sausage, although spicy-hot, exhibited fatty flavor, although the pepperoni, mozzarella cheese, and tomato sauce tasted good.

Entrees earned consistent praise. Ashley Farms Chicken Breast ($18.95), soaked in buttermilk, lightly floured and fried, was enhanced with a smoky bacon-tomato bechamel, served with sun-dried tomato goat cheese orzo and steamed broccoli. Lump Crab Cakes ($20.95) were seared dark brown, solid crab flavor emerging, accented by roasted red pepper aioli.

Pan Seared Sea Bass ($25.95) bore a beautiful crust, with a soft, moist interior. Raspberry basil jam worked well with the fish flavor. Sugar snap peas and deeply flavored Caprese risotto were well-chosen.

Seared Beef Tenderloin with Crab Cake ($26.95) should satisfy surf and turf fans. The steak was very lean, emitting excellent depth, and I was already enamored with the crab cake. Caramelized shallot and sherry hollandaise with truffle, porcini, shiitake and cremini mushroom risotto was very rich, joined by haricots verts.

We shared Molten Chocolate Lava Cake ($5.95) — devil’s food cake with a warm liquid chocolate center, surrounded by whipped cream. It was as decadent as it sounds.

Servers were consistently knowledgeable, deliveries and checkbacks well-paced.

Executive Chef Jon Willis, a GTCC culinary program graduate, started cooking in his teens at Spring Garden Grill. After internships at several East Coast restaurants, including Cello in Boca Raton, he worked at 1618 and Print Works in Greensboro before being lured to Emerywood. Willis emphasizes that all dietary needs can be accommodated.

Steve Shellberg bought this property about three years ago. He has nearly 30 years of restaurant and catering experience. His wife Amy, who waited tables in college and is now also an oncology nurse, is the other partner.

I’ll be back from time to time when I’m not reviewing. I like this place.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 25 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com. To find his recent columns, visit GoTriad.com..