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GREENSBORO — MJ’s stands for Madelyn and Julianna, daughters of chef-proprietor Tad Engstrom (a New England Culinary Institute graduate) and wife/proprietor Rachel. Mindy Calvin, Rachel’s mother, is catering and floor manager; husband Bill is the other partner. The restaurant’s motto is “A quality dining experience!” I concur.

The former home is more than 100 years old. Tangerine walls are decorated with fish paintings. Wait staff wear black polo shirts and black slacks. They deliver bread, nice and crusty, promptly after seating.

My party began one meal with Cheese and Prosciutto Plate ($11) — pimiento spread, made in house, several cheeses that could be duplicated in area grocers, plus sliced prosciutto, garnished with sharp pepper jelly, fruit, and crackers. This would be better if focused on the pimiento cheese.

Other starters are an unqualified success. Sauteed Shrimp ($18) swim in a bed of polenta ladled with creamy sherry gravy with green peppers, andouille sausage, onions, and diced tomatoes. Flash Fried Calamari ($9) are a little firm, pleasantly flavored from the breading, sprinkled with balsamic reduction, enhanced with aioli infused with sambol (Asian chili pepper). A small salad of organic lettuces bears balsamic reduction, making it palatable instead of merely decorative.

Prince Edward Island Mussels ($10) bathe in a wonderful lemon grass curry broth, hosting diced tomatoes, red and yellow bell pepper strips, crisp fried basil leaves and toasted French bread. Pork Tacos ($9) contain pulled pork with mild barbecue sauce joined by pickled red cabbage, corn, and green onion slaw, decorated with pumpkin seed oil and scattered with fresh cilantro.

I was consistently impressed with quality of ingredients as well as flavor and presentation of entrees. Summer Squash Potato Gratin ($13) layers potato, squash, zucchini, garlic and thyme with smoked cheddar cheese, flanked by crisp tempura asparagus, along with carrots, chimichurri (finely diced parsley and olive oil) and balsamic reduction. Pan Seared Scallops ($26) are tender, richly flavored, seared beautifully, complemented with ponzu sauce and cashew dressing, flanked by wasabi mashed potatoes and green beans, zucchini, squash, and carrot, glazed with soy butter.

Veal Chop ($25) exhibits solid natural veal flavor. To an excellent Espagnole sauce (veal stock simmered with mirepoix and tomato puree, thickened with roux), shiitake mushrooms are added, yielding exceptional complexity and richness. Spinach and fabulous Parmesan pommes frites are the accompaniment.

Duck Two Ways ($25) consists of a firm, flavorful breast (not fatty) plus tender leg and thigh confit. Blackberry lavender gastrique marries really well with duck. The fowl is matched with ginger spiced sweet potatoes and baby spinach.

Marinated Beef “Tender” ($22) uses shoulder, showing excellent depth of beef flavor from within a pan-seared exterior, extended with red-eye gravy. Mashed potatoes are blended with Vermont cheddar cheese, joined by sauteed carrots, zucchini, and squash.

We ordered off-menu specials on two occasions. Miso-Glazed Corvino ($24) featured this white-fleshed fish, lightly browned, augmented by fried rice containing rock shrimp, asparagus alongside. Ribeye ($29) came with Espagnole sauce plus a tomato stuffed with blue cheese and mushrooms. Mashed potatoes were infused with crabmeat (backfin?).

Desserts cost $7. Fresh whipped cream covers lush Coconut Macaroon Pie, decorated with blackberries and strawberries, laced with caramel sauce. French press coffee ($3) earns a rare compliment.

Servers know the food, and they consistently place dishes at the appropriate position at the table. The kitchen is flexible regarding vegetable choices, and servers are empowered to make adjustments without having to ask permission.

This is an auspicious beginning.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 25 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com. To find his recent columns, visit GoTriad.com.