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Viognier (VEE-OWN-YAY) is a shy-bearing grape, riskier still perhaps in unpredictable east coast climes. But quite a few North Carolina wineries see this French Rhone grape as a way to differentiate their portfolio, so they gamble on the grape.

RayLen Vineyards near Mocksville was among the early adopters of Viognier and winemaker Steve Shepard enjoys the challenge. This newest release -on the 10th anniversary of this winery - is on the crisper end of the spectrum, but still hints of peach and honeysuckle, with healthy overtones of apple and citrus.

In addition to Viognier, eight more varietals grow at RayLen, with production falling between such behemoths as Biltmore, Shelton and Childress and the scores of boutiques across the state. In that mid-tier, RayLen:

* has emerged as one of the state’s leaders in proprietary red blends, first creating a buzz with its “Carolinius” in 2000. It followed later with a richer blend called “Category 5” – a morbidly playful recognition of the devastating hurricanes that can wreak havoc on North Carolina vineyards at harvest.

* received favorable press in both Wine Spectator and Parade magazine for wine quality and visitor ambiance.

* was the first in the state to bottle a North Carolina Syrah and was among the first in the state to introduce a Pinot Grigio from North Carolina fruit.

Try the 2010 Viognier with this simple summer dish.

Ingredients

6 1/2 cups water

Salt

1 3/4 cups white polenta (10 ounces)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 pounds shrimp, shelled and deveined

3 large garlic cloves, very finely chopped

Directions:

In a large saucepan, combine the water with a large pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Add the polenta in a thin stream, whisking constantly.

Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the polenta is thick and the grains are tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in the butter, season the polenta with salt and pepper and keep warm.

In a very large skillet, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Season the shrimp with salt and pepper. Add them to the skillet and cook over high heat until they are lightly browned on one side, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic, turn the shrimp over and cook until cooked through, about 1 minute longer.

Transfer the polenta to shallow bowls. Top with the shrimp and some of the garlic oil from the skillet.