news-record.com

GREENSBORO — Sicilian native Nico Scavone has lived in Greensboro since 2002. His professional background includes luxury hotels in Venice and Rome. John Drees of Southern Lights, where Nico previously worked, is the other partner in Nico’s Restaurant and Bar. The look is urbane with bright salmon-and-cream walls and food-themed paintings.

On the mostly Sicilian wine list, look for Cattarrato — a white that is lighter than chardonnay but just as rich, as well as Nero d’Avola, a red that is lighter than cabernet sauvignon but as complex as pinot noir.

Homemade breads earn praise: crusty Focaccia plus an olive loaf, served with balsamic syrup and extra-virgin olive oils from southern Italy.

We were especially drawn to salads. Bruschette ($9) — ripe tomatoes and basil on grilled focaccia — bursts with the flavors of summer. Insalata di Rucola ($8) uses baby arugula, toasted walnuts, gorgonzola cheese and dried black cherries, dressed in balsamic vinaigrette. Insalata di Finocchio ($8) joins sliced pears with real prosciutto di Parma and fresh shaved fennel on a bed of radicchio and leaf lettuces. Caprese ($8) stacks heirloom tomatoes between fresh mozzarella and basil, ladled with balsamic reduction.

From the Antipasti list, Cappesantegratinate ($13) coats three large scallops with fine bread crumbs, sautéed gently with garlic, presented with Parmesano-Reggiano cheeses surrounding olive tapenade.

Pasta is made in-house; it conveys sauce flavors effectively. Lasagne Bolognese ($17) blends veal and beef plus green peas and Parmesano-Reggiano cheeses in béchamel sauce — both light and rich. Tortellini con Prosciutto ($16) uses real prosciutto di Parma in a lush shallot cream sauce.

Pasta Pescespada e Melanzine ($19) places swordfish, eggplant, tomatoes, onions, and mint in penne pasta with garlic and olive oil. The mint blends beautifully with the eggplant. Risotto Agliasparagi e Gamberi ($21) hosts large, de-veined, slightly sweet shrimp, along with steamed asparagus and onion in white wine and vegetable broth, enhanced with Parmesano-Reggiano cheeses.

Pastas could serve as main courses, but secondi piatti are offered, too. A half breast makes up Pollo Saltinbocca alla Romana ($25), augmented with prosciutto in white wine sauce. Although this tastes quite good, the portion seems skimpy for the price. Linguine al Frutti di Mare ($26) earns its money, however: mussels and clams, large shrimp and monster scallops join garlic, red pepper and white wine in a dense, rich tomato sauce with fresh basil.

Cernia alla Griglia ($25) — grilled grouper with onion, capers, parsley and rich tomato sauce — allows the natural flavor of the fish to remain unscathed.
Veal al Marsala ($28) uses quality veal, enhanced with porcini mushrooms and Marsala wine. Manzo Strofinato alle Erbe ($26) exhibits good depth from ribeye steak, augmented by mild Italian dry rub, extended by brandy reduction.

Several flavors of homemade Gelato ($6) are offered. We tried vanilla bean with raspberry coulis and chocolate drizzle, white chocolate and white truffle, and pistachio (my favorite). Cannoli Siciliani ($8), delicate pastry filled with sweet ricotta cheese, and Tiramisu ($8) — made with real espresso — are winners, too.

On my first visit, we experienced lengthy intervals between courses; one entrée arrived barely above room temperature. Service was well-paced on subsequent occasions, and servers expressed solid food knowledge.

Executive chefs are Dallas Baker (he earned a degree in marine biology from UNC-Wilmington, apprenticed at Greensboro City Club under Mitchell Nicks and then worked at Pastiche) and Sam Shumaker (who completed the culinary program at Cape Fear Community College and worked at 1618 under George Neal and John Wheeler).

These meals revealed very strong performance developing over time. Nico’s is not just another Italian restaurant. It’s Sicilian. And that’s a unique twist.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 25 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com. To find his recent columns, visit GoTriad.com.