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GREENSBORO — Marisol opened in 1997 with chef-proprietor Stephen Schneider at the helm. I admired his creativity and skill during the early years but occasionally thought he needed a good editor when his imagination grew excessive. After several years, as his performances grew more consistent as well as creative, I awarded Marisol a five-star rating.

Unbeknownst to me, that rating came after Robin Burkhart joined the kitchen staff (in 2001), while attending GTCC’s Culinary Arts program. Robin and Stephen were married in March 2010. Stephen died later the same year.

Return Visit is an occasional theme column based on a single meal. This return visit was to see how Marisol has fared under Chef Burkhart. Past practices remain in place, and in general, food has not missed a step.

A printed menu of appetizers and salads is posted on the website and is provided upon seating. Servers still recite the entire list of soups and entrees, however, a practice I find inconvenient. I can’t remember all that stuff, and I usually have to ask for repetitions. Prices are not usually provided; you’d better ask.

What emerges from the kitchen continues to be quite special. This meal began with an exquisite amuse (gratis) of duck liver mousse with red wine and veal stock reduction.

Breads — foccacia with rosemary, shallots and Parmesan; Italian hard rolls; and black mission fig and walnut sourdough — rank among the area’s best.

I think Marisol was the first restaurant in our area to offer a Grilled Caesar Salad ($10) — a brilliant treatment that conveys subtle smokiness, decorated with roasted red pepper coulis, Cayenne pepper croutons and shaved Parmesan, dressed with horseradish Caesar vinaigrette.

An outstanding light crust coated the main ingredient in Flash-Fried Oyster Salad ($16), accented with a curry lime aioli, plus pickled red onion over organic arugula and mango cucumber slaw, dressed in balsamic vinaigrette — a fascinating interplay of flavors. Rock Shrimp ($18) were exceptionally tender, yet crisp, coated with toasted black sesame seeds, plus a spicy-sweet chili glaze.

Entrees featured first of the season Alaskan Halibut ($40), pan-seared then finished in the oven, lightly enhanced with a sauce of saffron, vanilla, white wine and lobster stock, finished with cream. Scottish Salmon ($35) was stuffed with a dressing of rock shrimp, lobster and crab meat, with dill-accented lobster cream sauce.

The exceptional quality of the meats served here became evident on first bite. The deep flavor of Beef Tenderloin ($38) was extended with applewood smoked bacon, brown sugar and espresso red-eye gravy, flanked by thinly sliced shiitake mushrooms. Grilled Pork Tenderloin ($35) was coated with whole grain mustard and roasted garlic sage, sauced with white wine and chicken stock blended with just a little cream. Braised red cabbage, roasted asparagus, mashed sweet potatoes and broccoli rabe lent color as well as taste and nutrition.

Desserts ($10) involve elaborate swirls of color and layers of flavor. If you get Tiramisu, ask for the “aged” version.

Floor staff expertise is evident in descriptions and recommendations, as well as well-paced deliveries to proper positions at the table.

This visit reaffirmed Marisol’s ranking among the area’s elite.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 25 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com. To find his recent columns, visit GoTriad.com. Read his blog at johnbatchelordiningandtravel.blogspot.com.