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GREENSBORO — 1618 Seafood Grille, adapted from a firehouse, looks modern. Rich brown walls over gray banquettes are decorated with accessories from the Philips Collection. Large “clouds” overhead and carpeted floor help soften noise, although conversation can still be difficult.

Chef-proprietor George Neal has developed a personal cuisine, often bearing Southwestern influences. Most dishes generate layers of flavor. You may be unnerved by dishes that juxtapose ingredients normally matching red and white wines. Have both, choosing portion-size options on the by-the-glass list.

1618 specializes in boutique wines — a plus for some, discomforting for others. Small tastings are easily acquired.

Warm, crusty bread with herbed olive oil arrives promptly.

I could be happy dining on appetizers. Jumbo Tempura Shrimp ($11) are blessed with a light, crisp treatment, flanking two crostini hosting a warm brie wedge and caramelized onions, swirled with lingonberry sauce. Crisp, thick bacon encloses but does not overpower a Crabcake ($11), augmented by “Buffalo sauce” (Texas Pete and butter). A salad of Romaine lettuce with avocado, corn, tomatoes and red onions rests alongside.

Scallops ($11) are wrapped in crisply fried angel hair pasta, garnished with portobello relish and parsley oil, scattered with lump crabmeat. A knockout. Light, crisp Calamari ($12) receive a wasabi glaze, sharply accented by a chipotle remoulade, flanked by red bean salsa and sprouts. Three hearty Meatballs ($10) rest in rich tomato basil sauce, next to a crostini covered with basil chiffonade.

Conventional entrees are equally satisfying. Sesame Seed Crusted Tuna ($26) — tender, no gristle — is seared in sesame oil, drizzled with balsamic glaze and chipotle oil, garnished with feta cheese and toasted almonds. A spring roll wrapper creates a sail, center stage. Steamed cabbage and wasabi mashed potatoes complete the concept.

Thick Flounder ($28) gains crispness from a crust of crushed Ritz crackers and almonds. This rests in adobe sauce (smoked chipotle peppers, tomatoes, garlic, and vinegar). Cheddar cheese potato cake, spaghetti squash and haricot vert round out another well-balanced creation. Pan-Seared Sea Bass ($30) bears deep, natural flavor, augmented by spinach and crab stuffed mushrooms, next to havarti and jalapeno risotto cake plus grilled asparagus, decorated with portobello mushroom relish.

N.Y. Strip Oscar ($30) is not as thick as steakhouse portions, but the pepper-accented flavor is just as deep, augmented by lump crab meat and hollandaise sauce. Grilled asparagus and fresh-cut steak frites are a perfect match.

Sometimes, I think Chef Neal’s imagination goes too far. Buttermilk Marinated Pan Fried Chicken Breast ($19), on the winter menu, was placed in soft angel hair pasta with peas, prosciutto, squash, zucchini and tomatoes in Alfredo sauce. I would have praised any of the ingredients individually, but altogether, this was just too much stuff.

An early (before 7 p.m.) seating menu ($15) provides three courses. We savored dense Tomato Basil Soup and Blackened Grouper — flavorful from blackening spices but not too hot. Homemade strawberry ice cream with fresh strawberries was the third course.

Unrepentant co-conspirators ordered two more desserts. Carrot Cake ($6) frosted with sweetened cream cheese is presented in a stacked cylinder.

Chocolate Lover’s Sundae ($7) places homemade chocolate ice cream in a chocolate egg with fudge brownie and chocolate sauce. Worth the weight gain.

Knowledgeable guidance is the norm. Several servers deliver each course simultaneously to the correct position at the table.

James Ingold is sous chef. Partner Nick Wyatt manages the floor. Melissa McCandless is co-manager.

I continue to consider 1618 one of the area’s best.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 25 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com. To find his recent columns, visit GoTriad.com