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GREENSBORO — I feel a warm sense of welcome at Palmetto, even though no one knows me. I think that is a function of the genuine grace of floor manager LaShawn Brown and husband/chef/proprietor Carlos Brown, a Johnson & Wales University graduate.

I have contended that successful restaurants understand that hospitality is even more important to the business than food. Restaurants that prosper provide both. Palmetto does.

A balcony framed in chestnut panels looks down on a two-story dining area, one of the most attractive settings in the city. A projection of the Palmetto logo decorates the far wall.

Food creations focus on Charleston and the South Carolina Low Country where Chef Brown grew up. I found execution at Palmetto more refined, with a lighter touch, than in his previous location (Gullah Gullah in High Point). Warm cornbread, sweetened with brown sugar and flavored with cinnamon, provides an introduction.

She Crab Soup ($8) is redolent of cream and crab. In Carolina Crab Dip ($12), I taste cheese first, then crab, but it tastes good, nevertheless, spread on perfectly toasted pita wedges.

In Grilled Pear and Spinach Salad ($10), baby leaves host warm, crisp pear halves, scattered with soft-cooked onions and dressed in warm onion vinaigrette.

Several entrees are offered in small or large portions — a feature I like. Shrimp Etoufee ($11/$19) bears deveined medium-size shrimp placed over peppery rice. White Cheddar Shrimp and Grits ($12/$22) gain additional rich flavor from the grits. Two Crab Cakes ($21) convey solid crab flavor. Catch of the Day Southwestern Tilapia ($20) receives its primary flavor from spicy salsa. (Tilapia is about the cheapest fish marketed to restaurants; the price seems high.)

Johns Island Herb Roasted Chicken ($22) is moist and tender, its natural flavor subtly enhanced by thyme, rosemary and cilantro (I felt uneasy with the price again). An off-menu special, Pork Ribs ($24), presented a large portion, hot, tender and juicy, enhanced with a sweetish barbecue sauce. I would suggest making these ribs a regular menu item; they are among the best I’ve had in the area.

Entrees come with two vegetables. Garlic mashed potatoes, sautéed spinach, collard greens plus macaroni and cheese all taste fresh, cooked Southern style.

Several elements need work, however. The wine list provides no cabernet sauvignons, and quality and value, in general, show room for improvement. The bar, servers and the kitchen are not well-coordinated. On one visit, items were delivered in appropriate sequence, albeit at leisurely intervals.

On another evening, first courses were completed before wine ever arrived. Patrons at the table next to ours asked how long we had been waiting; their glasses had been inordinately delayed, too. We asked to split a salad, but our server just delivered one full portion. I requested that leftovers be boxed for take home, but they just disappeared.

Jazz is performed in the bar on Thursday through Saturday nights. Once the music starts, conversation becomes difficult. Long ago, when I sat in with Jimmie Davis and Foots Harrison (I was Dannie Richmond’s student), we resented diners’ complaints about how loudly we played. Now, I am the diner who wants the volume turned down. How perspectives change with age!

I would suggest, therefore, a fairly early reservation for dinner. Move to the bar later, if you are interested in music.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 25 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com. To find his recent columns, visit GoTriad.com.