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KERNERSVILLE — Tim Bocholis was chef at Valencia (RIP) on Tate Street in Greensboro. Trained at the Culinary Institute of America, he has lived and cooked in Spain and Greece. He opened Bistro B in December. This small cafe primarily implements the tapas concept.

Tapas-style dining (multiple, small portions) holds a special attraction for me, and Bistro B executes the concept well.

My wife began one meal with Lobster Saffron Bisque ($4.95), conveying intense flavor from the main ingredient, undergirded by sherry and chives.

I have sampled three salads, all of which bear repeating. The House Salad ($4.95, add walnuts, pears and Maytag blue cheese for $2) is based on organic field greens dressed in Champagne vinaigrette. Arugula Salad ($6.95) is joined by shaved fennel, dried cranberries, walnuts, goat cheese and grapefruit.

Roasted Beet Salad ($5.95) is laced with chamomile oil, presented over baby arugula interspersed with orange and grapefruit wedges, pistachio nuts and Maytag blue cheese. The latter two come with lemon vinaigrette.

Two other vegetable courses rank in the highest echelon: Pommes Frites ($2.95), thinly cut and crisp; and Cauliflower Gratin ($4.95), lush, a function of fresh cauliflower and caramelized onions, blended with cream, herbs and Parmesan cheese.

We also tried some sausage and ham selections. Loukaniko Me Krigharakia ($4.95) is chargrilled Greek sausage, spiced with orange rind, flanked by spicy red pepper orzo. Chorizo ($4.95) is more familiar — slightly spicy Spanish sausage with pimiento, garlic and Amontillado sherry over angel hair pasta with tomato sauce. Jamon Serrano ($5.95) is firm, dry, salt-cured ham, joined with melon and extra virgin olive oil.

Seafoods are winners, too. Calamares ($6.95), fried squid, are crisp and tender, accented by Spanish-style aioli. Gambas al Ajillo ($6.95) presents nine medium-sized shrimp, deveined and tender, augmented by garlic and chili, albeit a bit oversalted in the portion I tasted. Tuna Nicoise ($9.95) presents thick slices coated with black pepper and coriander, surrounded by olives, capers and a roasted red pepper tapenade.

Richly flavored Char-Grilled Lamb Sliders ($7.95) are treated with cheddar cheese and babaganoush (smoked, mashed eggplant). Beef Carpaccio ($8.95) — thinly sliced Angus beef tenderloin, pan seared — is combined with roasted peppers, shaved Parmesan cheese, anchovy-caper drizzle and grilled croutons. Both are flavor knockouts.

A Lamb Chop ($8.95) — as good as I’ve had recently — comes with mashed potatoes and broccoli rabe. My favorite, however, is Lamb Empanadas ($7.95) — ground lamb blended with olives, raisins and capers, accented with mint.

Angel Hair Pasta With Roasted Chicken ($13.95) receives an abundance of taste interplay from wild mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes, broccoli rabe alongside. Potato and Leek Crusted Snapper ($ 18.95) is tender and moist, extended with a ragout of cauliflower, chestnuts and mushrooms, plus creamed spinach and sunchoke puree, topped with creme fraiche.

Bistro B has entered the category of personal favorite, and I look forward to returning anytime the schedule allows.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 25 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com.