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Clothing prices to rise starting in spring

Monday, February 14, 2011
(Updated Tuesday, February 15 - 5:22 am)

NEW YORK (AP) — The era of falling clothing prices is ending.

Clothing prices have dropped for a decade as tame inflation and cheap overseas labor helped hold down costs. Retailers and clothing makers cut frills and experimented with fabric blends to cut prices during the recession.

But as the world economy recovers and demand for goods rises, a surge in labor and raw materials costs is squeezing retailers and manufacturers who have run out of ways to pare costs.

Cotton has more than doubled in price over the past year, hitting all-time highs. The price of other synthetic fabrics has jumped roughly 50 percent as demand for alternatives and blends has risen.

Clothing prices are expected to rise about 10 percent in coming months, with the biggest increases coming in the second half of the year, said Burt Flickinger III president of Strategic Resource Group.

Brooks Brothers' wrinkle-free men's dress shirts now cost $88, up from $79.50. Levi Strauss & Co., Wrangler jeans maker VF Corp., J.C. Penney Co., Nike and designer shoe seller Steve Madden also plan increases.

More specifics on price increases are expected when clothing retailers such as J.C. Penney Co. and Abercrombie & Fitch Co. report financial results this month.

"All of our brands, every single brand, will take some price increases," said Eric Wiseman, chairman and CEO of Greensboro-based VF Corp., whose brands include The North Face, Nautica, Wrangler and Lee. Cotton accounts for half the production cost of jeans, which make up about one-third of VF's sales, he told investors in November.

Higher costs also will affect how clothes are made. Clothing makers are blending more synthetic fabrics, such as rayon, and designing jeans with fewer beads and other embellishments. Shoppers also will have fewer color choices.

Retailers are trying to figure out whether consumer demand that gave them strong holiday sales will last. The fear is higher prices will nip that budding demand. Stores that cater to low- and middle-income shoppers will have the hardest time passing along price increases.

"We have been so used to deflation for years and years," said David Bassuk, managing director in the retail practice of AlixPartners. "Customers are going to be surprised."

Janice Mignanelli of Washington Township, N.J., doesn't want any surprises.

"'I'm not going to spend any more than $50 for a pair of jeans," said Mignanelli, a stay-at-home mom shopping at The Garden State Plaza in Paramus, N.J., last week. "I'll just have to cut back on the extras."

Even affluent shoppers, whose spending has rebounded, may bristle.

"It does give me some pause," said Jimmy Franco, a 47-year-old publicity executive and fan of Brooks Brothers' shirts. "Instead of buying two, I may just get one and a pair of socks. There's a certain amount of money that I'm prepared to spend."

Cotton prices have jumped to a 150-year-high, rising to $1.90 per pound on Friday, more than double what it was a year ago and just ahead of the $1.89 record hit during the Civil War, according to the International Cotton Advisory Committee.

Cotton prices began soaring in August of 2010 after bad weather cut harvests in major producing countries including China, the U.S., Pakistan and Australia.

Restrictions on exports from India, the world's second-largest cotton exporter behind China, have also produced cotton shortages. On top of that, worldwide demand for cotton has risen as the global economy improves.

Raw materials account for 25 percent to 50 percent of the cost of producing a garment. Labor ranges from 20 percent to 40 percent, depending on how complicated it is to make, Bassuk said.

On the production side, many Chinese factories that shut down temporarily in the depths of the recession still haven't returned to capacity. As they ramp up, they're finding they have to pay workers more because of labor shortages, said John Long, retail strategist at consulting firm Kurt Salmon.

Up until now, retailers have resisted passing along price increases to shoppers by shifting production to lower-cost regions, such as Vietnam, turning to other materials and absorbing cost increases.

But they're reaching the limit, according to Kevin Burke, president and CEO of the American Apparel & Footwear Association.

Mom-and-pop stores are most vulnerable because they have less power to negotiate better prices with suppliers than, say, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. But even the world's largest retailer is feeling the pressure.

"There's no doubt there may be some price increases that come up, but we don't want to ever let that be the first answer ... that just because cotton prices are up, that we're automatically going to pass that on to consumers," said Mike Duke, Wal-Mart's CEO and president in a recent interview.

Mary Hutchens, owner of Full of Beans, a 25-year-old children's clothing store in Chevy Chase, Md., worries that price increases could be a death blow. She said she has to discount heavily to stay in business and isn't sure she'll be able to pass along the costs.

"Everybody has changed their habits since the recession," she said. "I'm just trying to hold on."

Accompanying Photos

File photo (Associated Press)

Comments

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chieftp

February 14, 2011 - 3:08 pm EST

but things will be cheaper when they're no longer made in the U.S. they told us. and those hot, noisy, dusty factory jobs that we relied on for 100 years will be replaced with good paying, clean high tech jobs, they told us. well, those high tech jobs never materialized. we have 10% unemployment (officially - closer to 25% in reality.) and we have $100 jackets and $100 sweatpants and $100 jeans (all made in china of course) at the mall. I pay $25 for Pointer Brand jeans which are made in Bristol, TN. who in their right mind pays $50 for jeans made in some country they couldn't find on a globe if their life depended on it?

daverunfast

February 14, 2011 - 3:39 pm EST

Americans against 10% increase in retail clothing costs.

catfish

February 15, 2011 - 4:15 am EST

"who in their right mind ..." Good question chief. If people insist on buying clothes in places like Four Seasons Mall, or they are brand addicts, they have no right to complain about the prices IMO. Malls are a gouge.

Looks like some people will have to start mending and making their own clothes again.

thirstytarheel

February 14, 2011 - 4:01 pm EST

Maybe we could get some good high tech jobs. Maybe the state and counties could persuade a big computer company to come in and employ some of our textile and furniture workers to assemble computers. That would be much better than the low paying cotton mill and furniture plant positions people in the region use to have. Or we could become a mecca for customer service jobs such as call centers. We'll continue to tell the young folks how important it is to get a college education and then let them answer phones for 8 hours a day. These would be great 21st century jobs. And they will be green too. No more smokestacks and air pollution for us! We can finally shed the backward image the northerners and the rest of the country have of North Carolina. And with the new health care law almost upon us, we can train our people to empty bed pans and change bed linens. But please let's not manufacture anything. And lets not teach people anything that will allow them to be able to work for themselves. Lets just keep letting people think they're 'educated" and hope they can read the diplomas they have earned.

chieftp

February 14, 2011 - 7:21 pm EST

are you being sarcastic, dude?

The_Doctor

February 14, 2011 - 4:38 pm EST

I can't help but laugh when people refer to the recession in the past tense. For people in the real world, 10% U-3 Unemployment and rising prices on virtually every consumer item from food to energy skyrocketing, we're still in a recession.

Tigger

February 14, 2011 - 4:42 pm EST

Thank you very much...why is it everyone I talk to knows this but those in control will not admit it.

Panacea

February 14, 2011 - 5:11 pm EST

Because you don't understand what makes a recession.

Unemployment is always the last indicator to recover.

rmacz

February 14, 2011 - 6:24 pm EST

Panacea has obviously never heard the ol' saying, "It's a recession when your neighbor is unemployed, and it's a depression when you're unemployed".

The_Doctor

February 14, 2011 - 7:01 pm EST

Are you talking about the strict "2 consecutive quarters of negative growth" formula? That formula is arbitrary and of very limited value. Unemployment is going to be a long term problem, and so is inflation. We're headed right back to Stagflation, Panacea. You might not remember it, but in the 1970s, even when we weren't technically in "recession" it sure as he11 felt like it to most people. So instead of your smug and smarmy answers, why not try opening up your mind and think beyond the strict economic definitions that constrict your sense of reality.

Panacea

February 14, 2011 - 10:31 pm EST

There's a difference between being in a recession and feeling like you are in one. I'm not trying to downplay the economic situation, but don't mix apples and oranges.

I do remember the 1970's . . . vividly. I agree inflation is a great risk, but one we can avoid if we get the deficit under control.

Perhaps you should contain your sense of panic. I choose not to be ruled by fear or pessimism.

Tigger

February 14, 2011 - 4:41 pm EST

Okay, we have cotton which has skyrocketed in price..why? because of the weather in other parts of the world. Then that cotton is processed in other parts of the world to be made into clothing in other parts of the world to be shipped to the US so that we can now be charge more money in an economy that is still in a recession....Does anyone else see a problem here?

Why not take the tobacco fields and make cotton fields? Why not raze the factories that have fallen into such disrepair and rebuild them to process the cotton from these newly grown (formerly tobacco) fields, build/refurbuish factories to take the processed cotton to make the materieal to make said materials into clothing, etc.....Hmmmm could this maybe help actually climb us out of this recession that contrary to what the spin doctors in Washington say, we are still in.....

It may sound elementary, but we HAVE TO GET THE AMERICAN JOBS BACK HERE onto American soil and if that means it starts literaly in the soil, so be it. Didn't the tobacco farmers get paid by the government for their crops at some point? Well, there's a stimulus for you. Let's pay the farmers to grow the cotton that goes into the fabrics that we need to put the clothing on our bodies, in our homes.....Would this not bring jobs? Would this not bring growth? Would this not bring stability to our state? If we start here, can you imagine what could be grown from it. It's time that we take our country back and we begin relying on ourselves. Only then can we rebuild this state and this country to what it once was.

Panacea

February 14, 2011 - 5:17 pm EST

Bad weather also affected cotton production in the United States.

"Get the jobs back here" is a simplistic solution to a complex problem. Moving production back to the US will not by itself translate to lower prices.

Cotton can't be grown just anywhere. It requires the right climate, soil, and weather. Since we already know that the cotton harvest is bad in the US, that right there means we have to import cotton to meet the demand, and that creates costs even if the textile mill is in the US. And it is still cheaper to manufacture overseas, and import than produce domestically.

So "getting the jobs back here" will only translate to higher prices, assuming you could even make it happen.

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