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From Person County in the east, through Guilford County and westward into the Yadkin Valley, no fewer than 15 N.C. wineries dabble in Little Italy.

With explosive growth in this fledgling industry across the state -- 80-plus wineries and more coming this year -- N.C. winemakers must differentiate themselves. For many upstarts, that has meant experimenting with varietal grapes indigenous to Italy, the most ancient of wine regions.

Sangiovese -- the great red grape of the Chianti region -- is the Italian varietal most frequently scattered among traditional French vinifera in central North Carolina. Grove Winery and Stonefield Cellars, both in Guilford County, have produced Sangiovese, as does Rock of Ages Vineyards in Person County.

In the Yadkin Valley region, only a few wineries are experimenting with that grape, either as a standalone or blended: Raffaldini, Buck Shoals, Round Peak, Childress, Elkin Creek, McRitchie and Cellar 4201.

Folding Sangiovese into the Chardonnay/Merlot/Cabernet-laden portfolio isn't just a marketing move; grape growers and winemakers are keenly interested in investigating which varietals take well to North Carolina's soils and microclimates. The state's experience with most vinifera wine grapes goes back only a decade or two. Its experience with Italian grapes? Still in diapers.

The best example of research may be Surry Community College, which offers a two-year degree program in viticulture and enology. Its collaboration with N.C. State has the college growing a staggering variety of test vines. One includes Grignolino, an obscure red from Italy's Piedmont region famous for high acids and tannins.

Grove and Round Peak wineries continue jousting with Nebbiolo, Italy's longest-lived and most complex red. In North Carolina, that grape's erratic performance is mixed with cheers and jeers.

Grassy Creek Vineyards and Brandon Hills Vineyard are experimenting with Barbera. And Pinot Grigio, that most common of Italian white wines, is crafted at Raylen, Childress, RagApple Lassie and Raffaldini vineyards.

Raffaldini Vineyards near Ronda is the only North Carolina winery going all in on Italian-style wines. Marketing itself as "The Chianti of the Carolinas," Raffaldini makes solid Sangiovese and Pinot Grigio but also produces limited quantities of Vermentino and Montepulciano, virtually unheard of on the East Coast.

It's still too early to gauge success with these varietals in North Carolina. How they will express themselves through time, deep in Dixie, is anyone's guess. But comparing them alongside Italy's stalwarts is a fun task.

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Molly Kelly, enology instructor at Surry Community College, knows a thing or two about Petit Manseng.

One, this obscure grape makes a bright, silky, fruit forward white wine with exotic aromas.

Two, she wishes the college was growing it more.

She's high enough on this mutation of the Manseng grape that she thinks it might one day be North Carolina's signature white grape. A few years ago, winemakers were lauding Viognier. But Petit Manseng, Kelly says, could be a comer. It does well in the vineyard, better in the cellar, and she's so enthusiastic about it, she's pursuing her doctorate pegged to its aromatics.

Surry Cellars' 2008 Petit Manseng recently sold out -- and I did all I could to contribute last summer and fall. Kelly said the 2008 vintage came from purchased fruit but that Surry's 2009 vintage, to be released later this year, will be augmented by the college's fruit.

Raffaldini Vineyards near Ronda is growing that grape, and Rock of Ages in Person County has also crafted wine from Petit Manseng.

Is this is a grape to watch?

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Most recipes that match with Pinot Noir are complicated affairs requiring ingredients that would take me a week to find. So, I pestered my friend Mary Lacklen, chef-owner of Bert's Seafood Grille, for a Pinot match -- "something even I can't screw up," I said.

Lacklen, I've no doubt, had to give that caveat some thought.

In the Triad, Bert's Seafood Grille is an institution and Lacklen's creations are wildly imaginative. So I marvel at her suggestion (see recipe, above). I had all the ingredients on hand except the scallops.

This dish serves two and loves Pinot Noir (try with 2007 La Crema Pinot Noir). Seafood with a red wine? You bet.

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Want to learn more about North Carolina's up-and-coming wine industry? Looking for day-trip ideas to escape cabin fever? Looking for food-wine matches? Need hot tips on affordable wines from Argentina, New Zealand, Spain, South Africa, Australia, Germany and Italy?

Then subscribe to the News & Record's twice-monthly e-mail newsletter, Williams on Wine. It's free, and you can cancel anytime. Sign up at www.news-record.com. Type Williams on Wine in the search bar at the top left of the page or click on "Learn more" alongside e-mail updates on the right side of the page.

You'll get wine recommendations, food-wine pairings and a comprehensive wine calendar-of-events.

Ed Williams is public informa- tion director for Alamance Community College. This column publishes the first Wednesday of each month. If you have news of an event, e-mail williamsonwine@ gmail.com.

SCALLOPS IN BLUEBERRY CREAM SAUCE

8 large scallops

1 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

½ cup white wine

1 cup blueberries

1 cup crushed pecans or walnuts

1 white onion, diced

In a pan, heat olive oil and sear scallops, about 2 to 3 minutes per side (or to suit) over medium heat. (I like them slightly browned on the outside, still juicy inside.) Remove scallops and set aside.

Deglaze pan with the white wine, add the diced onion, heat and stir. Add the cream and butter. Reduce sauce over medium heat, about 5 minutes.

Add the fresh blueberries. Heat another 2 minutes.

On a plate, drizzle a puddle of the cream-onion-blueberry sauce. Top with four scallops. Garnish with the chopped nuts.

Prep and cooking takes 20 minutes.