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At my college, the Chronicle of Higher Education rotates among the President's Council, and this recent front-page item caught my eye: Some animal researchers cook up and eat that which they study -- all the better to understand their subject.

A University of Washington professor, John A. Marzluff, studies birds and says this about eating crow: "Really it's good -- rich, exotic, not too gamey. Especially with a fine Merlot."

No word if the Merlot is California, Washington State or right-bank Bordeaux.

Deeper into the story is a University of Washington biologist who swears by New Zealand Huhu, the larvae of a wood-boring beetle. "Soft bodied, and juicy with a creamy veal taste. They are fine raw but better sauteed and lightly salted, with a nice dry sherry."

No word if the sherry is part of the sauté or served alongside lightly-salted-once-juicy-larvae. As in "all the better to eat you with, my dear."

OK, this is misdirection set-up to that age-old question: What to serve at the holiday table? My answer (as always): Whatever.

The holiday rainbow of flavors, textures and sauces are impossible to match with any one wine. So, there's choice.

The holiday season is time to reflect on blessings. Start by feeling blessed you're not eating crow -- or Huhu.

Here are two dozen holiday wines I've found that are a particularly good return on investment.

$10 and less

2008 The Little Penguin Merlot ($7): What's with Australia and its animal labels? Dark cherry, boysenberry and silky tannins make this an easy quaffing red.

2008 Alice White Shiraz ($8): Yet another goofy Aussie label sporting kangaroo. Or is it wallabee? Or wallaroo? Anyway, surprisingly tasty plum, blackberry and anise.

2008 Banrock Station Cabernet Sauvignon ($7): A medium-bodied, light-tannin red bursting with sweet plum, currant and vanilla spice. Another Australian "fighting varietal" that gives consumers relief when budgets are tight. There's a pinch of Petit Verdot in the mix.

2007 Mont-Pellier Viognier ($8): Value-priced California white with a honeysuckle nose and peach, pear, apple and spice flavors.

2007 Oak Grove Viognier Reserve ($8): One of the more flavorful Viogniers on the market at this price. Some apricot and butterscotch peek through the apple and lime.

2008 Big House White ($8): Launched by Bonny Doon's Randall Graham but since sold, the Big House brand continues to reward consumers. This is a blend of Malvasia Bianca, Muscat Canelli, Viognier and Roussanne. This soft white feels off-dry, but that's largely the luscious pineapple, peach, apricot, pear and cantaloupe flavors shining through.

2008 Woodbridge Moscato ($8): California's Robert Mondavi brand crafts a fun, slightly sweet white from the Muscat grape. It's all about honey, tangerine, spice and flowers. If you have in-laws with a sweet tooth, this is the wine to bring.

2008 Ropiteau Pinot Noir ($9): From the Vin De Pays D'Oc region, this southern France red delivers surprisingly bright red cherry and blueberry flavors and aromas. Seems almost California in style -- but at a much lower price. Vin De Pay D'Oc is -- even at lower prices -- high-risk, high-reward. Lots of hits and misses. This Pinot, at this price, it's a hit.

2006 Melanto Terrace Zinfandel ($10): A ripe, round red from California's Amador County, where Zinfandel has a solid foothold. Anise, blackberry and raspberry flavors on a silky frame.

2008 Concannon Sauvignon Blanc ($10): California Sauvignon Blancs are delightfully different from those in New Zealand and France. This one has an intriguing herbal edge of fresh-cut grass and a tinge of poblano and sweet banana pepper. An unusual profile that keeps me coming back for more.

2008 Indaba Chenin Blanc Western Cape ($10): Chenin Blanc sometimes gets a bad rap, but it's responsible for some dandy whites out of South Africa. This lighter style sports pear, peach and melon ball aromas.

2008 Marques de Caceres Rioja Rosado ($10): A blush wine on the dry side. This Spanish rose offers zingy cranberry and fruity strawberry flavors and aromas.

2007 Liberty School Chardonnay ($10): Nice complexity from this Central Coast California white. There's a dollop of Viognier, partial barrel fermentation and about eight months of oak aging. Pineapple, honey, pear and lemon-lime flavor with noticeable floral aromas.

Less than $16

2008 Pino Pinotage -- Graham Beck ($11): A South African red with plum, dried cherry, dried blackberry and cranapple. This medium-bodied red is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, classic red grapes of the French Burgundy and the Rhone regions.

2007 McWilliams Riesling Hanwood Estate ($11): Green apple, lime, pear and a hint of that signature petrol aroma that screams Australia.

2008 Murphy-Goode North Coast Sauvignon Blanc ($12): This Sonoma producer fashioned a creamier-styled white, giving it the playful moniker "The Fume." There's the usual citrus flavors but some pineapple and apple notes. Want to have fun with friends? Taste this blind, alongside a New Zealand and French Sauvignon Blanc.

2007 Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon Rapel Valley ($12): Meant for immediate drinking, this Cab shows abundant black cherry, blackberry, currant and strawberries with a hint of coffee. This is one of those Chilean contenders that keeps California producers price competitive.

2008 Fontana Candida Frascati Superiore ($12): Crafted from Trebbiano and Malvasia, this is one of the world's most ancient of wines. It hails from the volcanic soils in the Lazio region of Italy near Rome. A pale, crisp, clean, dry white, it's almost thirst-quenching.

2006 Jacob's Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($13): Plum, black currant, cocoa and a wisp of mint. This ubiquitous Australian producer crafted a medium-bodied red with just enough tannic grip and vanilla oak.

2007 Shoofly Shiraz ($13): An attention-getting Aussie red. Rich black cherry and plum with a hint of licorice, mint and smoky bacon. If you like a medium-bodied, spicy red that offers generous fruit and a long finish, try this Syrah from Australia's Adelaide region.

2008 Zenato Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie ($13): This Italian white fashioned from the Pinot Gris grape is refreshingly crisp with a bit more citrus, pear and stone than most.

2007 Cupcake Petite Sirah ($14): No cupcake, this bold red. Lush, lingering blackberry, blueberry, chocolate and spice. Crafted from 100 percent Petite Sirah from California Central Coast vineyards.

2008 Cusumano Insolia Sicilia ($15): An unusual grape that crops up in Sicily. A minerally styled white with green apple and citrus. A crisp white that can host a party.

2007 Greg Norman Estate Shiraz-Cabernet Limestone Coast ($16): Spicy blackberry, plum, dark cherry and chocolate in this Australian red blend. The Greg Norman portfolio of wines in this premium-priced tier are some of the world's best bargains.

Ed Williams is Alamance Community College public information director. This column publishes the first Wednesday of each month. If you have news of a wine event, send e-mail to williamsonwine@gmail.com.