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Imperial Koi is on the second floor of a new office/shop complex on New Garden Road. The entrance is up the driveway and around back. A patio provides al fresco seating. Inside, banquettes line two walls of panoramic windows, looking out onto a new residential development, a wooded area and another shop complex.

From the entryway, hostesses greet guests upon entry. To the right, a bar area with single seating flanks a sushi bar manned by two to three personal chefs. Interior walls are textured stone -- quite attractive. In the evening, when the parking areas are illuminated, the view is almost urban, at least by Greensboro standards.

This place could become a personal favorite. I anticipate fairly frequent return visits.

The wine list is well-chosen and reasonably priced. The restaurant's domestic and imported beers provide a good match for this sort of food. And the green tea here is particularly fully flavored.

Pine Nut Chicken Lettuce Wrap ($8) combines mushrooms, shallots, garlic, rice noodles and small, diced chicken pieces. You spread this over lettuce leaves -- red-tipped green leaf the time I had it. Eat carefully to avoid dripping on your clothes. The effort pays off in flavor. Rocky Shrimp ($8) arrives with a generous portion of light, crisp tempura shrimp over a spring mix lettuce salad. A spicy mayonnaise adds bite.

Dim Sum Platter ($11) provides an assortment of tastings: two each of fried vegetable spring rolls, shrimp shumai (dumplings), steamed sweet lobster dumplings and steamed pork wontons. Spicy-hot mustard is provided for accent; used with care, it produces a sharp impact that intensifies flavors. This turned out to be the favorite starter. It is easily shared by a party of four.

Most of the flavor in Teriyaki Chicken ($15) came from the sweet teriyaki sauce that covered the chicken, which produced little taste of its own, from a firm yet gelatinous texture. Small amounts of broccoli, asparagus and sliced "baby" carrots accompanied purple rice. This was once called "forbidden rice" because only the Emperor and his chosen few were allowed to eat it on pain of death. I would not be willing to die for it, but it is very good, and unusual.

Yuzu Salmon ($19) is an interesting construction, rolling Atlantic salmon into a large pinwheel. This is pan-seared to a pleasant crust.

In spite of its farmed origin, this tasted quite good, my wife's favorite of the experiences here. It is joined by a whole, sweet-tasting blue prawn. A vegetable medley of red onion, red and green bell peppers, mushrooms and bean sprouts rounds out a colorful presentation.

Miso Chilean Sea Bass ($20) is simmered in miso-mushroom broth, producing an exceptionally tender effect, undergirded by slices of mushroom. Brown rice soaks up the flavor of the broth well. A few slices of asparagus and thin slices of fried lemon complete the conception.

I tried an off-menu special, "Amazing Shrimp" ($22), and found large, whole shrimp (heads on), the tails deveined, naturally sweet in taste. Diced roasted red peppers, corn and a tiny bit of spinach hosted the presentation.

Three selections from the Imperial Koi Special Roll sushi and sashimi section of the entrée menu provided tastings of several seafoods, all in striking presentations. Sashimi Roll ($15) assembles yellowtail tuna, salmon and seaweed along with asparagus, spiced with wasabi mayonnaise.

Ultimate Lobster Roll ($16) joins tempura-fried lobster with avocado (a good match), plus mango, kiwi fruit and Romaine lettuce, coated with panko bread crumbs, yielding crisp texture and complex flavors. The chef laced the oversize white plate with colorful sauces for high visual impact. Imperial

Koi Roll ($16) combines light, crisp tempura shrimp with pieces of lobster, plus cucumber, mango and fried banana. Although I (and everyone else around the table) enjoyed the flavors, I came away with a consistent misgiving about vegetables. They are fresh, colorful and well-prepared. But they are served in tiny quantities. I want more of a good thing.

One dessert was too enticing to resist. Besides, fall brings loose clothing. Warm Chocolate Lava Cake ($7) is based on hazelnut and white chocolate risotto, with vanilla ice cream alongside. A cinnamon-flavored wafer turned out to be very tough in texture, although quite flavorful.

Determining a rating for Imperial Koi was difficult. I initially settled on *** but reconsidered that number after I reread other reviews I have written during the past year (in the context of my "renormed" system). But it is very close. Compared to other restaurants in this genre, it ranks among the best.

Owners-brothers Peter and Michael Guan are nephews of a Connecticut restaurant owner who has tutored them in the business. When they moved to Greensboro, they brought chefs Jack and Jackie Chen, along with Guang Lee and the elder "Mr. Lee" with them. John Stewart, host-partner-manager, monitors the floor in an exceptionally friendly manner. He is one of those personalities that has never encountered a stranger and probably never will. Servers paced deliveries well.

Imperial Koi gets a solid recommendation. 

Contact John Batchelor at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com.