news-record.com

Graffiti's Bistro occupies the space formerly held by one of the Chop House Grille installations. A server advised that many of the kitchen staff members remain in place from the former incarnation, and certain parts of the menu, although abbreviated, are sourced from the same suppliers and prepared by the same personnel in the same way. That's a compliment, in my estimation.

As it turned out, after a series of review visits, there are things I like about Graffiti's, too, not the least of which is a more accessible menu, generally at lower prices.

Gracious hostesses greet you and guide you from the foyer to your table. The look is masculine, steakhouse elegant. For mid-priced finer dining in our area, the ambience of this property is hard to beat. I consider the wine list here especially inviting. You cannot get a bad wine, prices are reasonable, and on Tuesday nights, the half-priced by the glass and bottle selections are a great bargain.

On the first visit, when my wife and I dined here, vie de France-style rolls arrived warm, with a brown crust -- one of the few occasions in our area when I have found this style of bread properly baked. But that compliment could not be repeated on subsequent visits.

Thai Chili Calamari ($7.95) is a good place to start a meal here. Small rings and baby squid are coated in sesame flour, lightly fried and tossed in a sweetish-hot Thai chili with marinara sauce on the side. A Charleston Crab Cake ($8.95) measures about 1 inch thick by 4 inches in diameter -- large when compared to others in our area. The flavor of the crab cake features breading and backfin crab meat, accented by a pleasantly spicy remoulade.

I could become a regular here for "Build Your Burger" ($8.95) Certified Angus Beef. The patty produces solid beef flavor on a kaiser roll. The array of condiments is impressive -- sautéed mushrooms; sautéed onions; slaw; Provolone, blue, cheddar, American or Swiss cheeses; applewood bacon; sliced Bermuda onions; tomato; and leaf lettuce. There is also a choice of french fries, sweet potato fries, chips or fruit. I selected sautéed onions (cooked soft and sweet), bacon (very good, smoky flavor) and cheddar cheese (good quality), along with lettuce (Romaine) and tomato (moderately flavored), plus chips (nice and crisp). I would rate this in the upper echelon for area burgers -- exceeded only once, in fact, at a much higher price.

Fried Argentinian Flounder ($13.95) is lightly coated with cornmeal and fried crisp. I questioned, initially, why anyone in North Carolina would buy flounder from Argentina, and the dry texture and the flavor -- fair in the thicker parts, very weak and slightly fishy where thin -- did nothing to convince me that the decision was well founded. I did not enjoy picking a lot of bones out of the filet, either. Cole slaw and tartar sauce were the accompaniments.

Edmund's Fried Catfish ($13.95) is lightly battered and fried nice and crisp. The inherent flavor of catfish emerges appropriately. This went well with a sweet, flavorful corn pudding, plus baby arugula and remoulade sauce. Chicken Pot Pie ($9.95) comes with a small side salad, in addition to vegetables. A crisp, flaky puff pastry covers the top. Inside, green peas and corn, along with pieces of chicken, have mild flavor from within a steamy liquid.

Filet Mignon ($25.95 for 8-ounce portion) generates solid depth of flavor from tender, appropriately juicy texture, brushed with garlic herb butter. This steak hearkened back to Graffiti's former incarnation, and ranks, in my estimation, among the best values in mid- to upper-echelon steaks.

I was looking forward to the Stuffed Pork Chop ($18.95), based on the menu description -- "goat cheese-stuffed pork chop wrapped in bacon, white Tuscan bean ragout, tasso ham port wine demi-glace & orange marmalade." The inch-thick cut, bone-in, looked great. But my serving was hard, with little grilled flavor, producing very weak pork taste overall and only a hint of herbed goat cheese from a thin sliver in the middle. I got the taste of brine, more than anything else, infused into the meat. A smoky barbecue-flavored sauce covered the meat and obscured whatever pork flavor might have resided therein. The accompanying white beans with bacon, however, produced a porky richness that I really enjoyed.

Entrée prices include two vegetables. Broccoli was cooked al dente, but the interior and centers were visibly yellow or actually brown and soft in some places. Sweet Potato Fries are great, naturally sweet. Onion rings are thick cut and crisp, but my portions were a little greasy. Sautéed spinach is slightly garlicky. Vegetable du jour consisted of green beans and yellow wax beans on one occasion, green beans amandine on another; I would order either again. Fresh fruit consisted of grapes, cantaloupe, honeydew and pineapple.

Service was consistently well informed, commendably paced on two of three visits. A manager circulated constantly and visited every table.

Like so many other area restaurants, Graffiti's has implemented its own version of the stimulus package, with specials Monday through Thursday and live music Thursday, Friday and Saturday in the bar.

A summary appraisal: I like things about this place. I would go back on any Tuesday, in particular, for the discounted wines. I would be more likely to order red meat entrees than anything else.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 20 years. Contact him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or e-mail john.e. batchelor@gmail.com.