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LEXINGTON -- Childress Vineyards winemaker Mark Friszowlowski glides among diners amid the oak barrels. At tonight's winemaker's dinner, he's doing what I remember he does best: some history here for the uninitiated, some grape physiology there for the enthusiasts, some chemistry for the hardcore, memory like a steel trap.

Few winemakers can meet you wherever you are on your wine journey and offer down-to-earth reconnaissance. Friszolowski has that knack, along with medals, ribbons and leadership posts across the wine industry.

At tonight's winemaker's dinner, I remember how this is the 5th anniversary of our first meeting -- at a crush pad while Childress Vineyards was still under construction. Chardonnay grapes were poring over the transom, spilling and bouncing. Friszolowski was directing traffic while trying to explain NASCAR team owner Richard Childress' vision for this Italian colossus rising from the countryside.

Tonight's dinner is more relaxed. When I introduce my wife, he says, "We met, I believe, at Elizabeth's Pizza awhile back."

This was three-plus years ago when we serendipitously dropped in on a night Childress reps were there to promote their new wines to the family pizza crowd off Battleground Avenue.

That's how Childress Vineyards -- one of North Carolina's largest and now nationally known wineries -- was marketing in those early years. And that's the memory Friszolowski apparently has.

At tonight's winemaker's dinner, I expect some showmanship, some rhetorical sleight-of-hand during food-wine pairings. But Friszolowki disdains oratory, content to wander the barrel room and chat up a few guests at a time.

Tonight's food-wine pairing is all about self-discovery. Given the choice of champagne or Syrah, who knew a tuna appetizer tasted better with the 2004 Barrel Select Syrah. So much for white-wine-with-fish wisdom.

More surprising was how the micro-green salad, cucumber and Enoki mushroom went better with the 2006 Barrel Select Merlot than the 2008 Sauvignon Blanc. Everyone knows you don't eat salad alongside red wine, right? The 50-year-old Balsamic drizzle changed that equation.

Foie gras joined the 2008 Late Harvest Viognier. Many late harvest wines are overly extracted and cloying. But Friszolowski throtted back. I was amazed at its finesse, nuance, and clean peach and honey flavors.

The 2006 Reserve Chardonnay served with scallop, tomato eggplant and roasted pepper sauce served to remind: A minerally-style white embraces delicate seafood.

Alongside pan seared pheasant with juniper berry sauce came the 2006 Reserve Cabernet Franc. Cab Franc is generally a lighter-styled red but this rendering was big, bold, fuller-bodied and more complex than I had come to expect. Friszolowski acknowledged some alchemy, blending Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to create effect.

The 2005 Signature Meritage -- top-shelf for Childress Vineyards -- came with rack of lamb on parmesan polenta cake. The licorice, plum, black cherry and spices in the wine loved lamb. This full-bodied, dry red wine boasted the Bordeaux formula: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot.

The night ended with a chocolate caramel tart alongside 2006 Childress Polar, a dessert-style wine fashioned from Vidal Blanc. Another surprise: So rich was the caramel and crust that a dessert wine did not stand up to the dessert. I was not alone in the observation.

So out came more big red wine glasses, reprised by the powerful 2005 Signature Meritage. A full-bodied, dry red with chocolate-caramel?

Five years from now, I bet I don't have to remind Mark Friszolowski: You betcha!

* * * *

My grandfather died before I could ask why he spent so many years as a citrus grower and what it was like in those groves outside Orlando, Fla. As a toddler, I can only vaguely remember the sprawling groves and the smudge pot fires at night as a freeze approached orange, tangerine and grapefruit.

In wandering North Carolina vineyards and interviewing its growers, I think -- every now and again if I listen close -- I can hear my grandpa answer &ellipses;

Jim Douthit, Grassy Creek Vineyards: "It's getting toward 9 p.m. and I'm out on my tractor finishing up in the vineyard. The sun is going down and my wife pulls up, pulls out a bottle and we're sitting in the back of the truck and you can look out and see God's glory and the fruit of your labor. And it's just awesome."

Tim Doub, Flint Hill Vineyards: "My biggest payback? It's when I'm out there on my tractor. And my phone ain't ringing."

Kim Myers, Laurel Gray Vineyards: "We work to dark-thirty, eight days a week."

Gene Reneger, Allison Oaks Vineyards: "I started out farming, left it to work in insurance. Wearing a suit and tie -- I hated that."

Chuck Johnson, Shadow Springs Vineyard: "Sitting around watching Oprah was not an option for me (after retirement). I'm working more now, but I like my new corner office -- and my orange tractor."

Van Coe, Stony Knoll Vineyards: "My kids needed to know about work ethic. And this will teach that ethic. The learning curve is steep. This is a horrendous challenge -- but it's also a lot of fun. The main thing, I think, is to enjoy it. That's what we do. Enjoy what Mother Nature is giving us, enjoy what's coming from our terroir. And enjoy our time on Earth."

Ed Williams is Director of Public Information and Marketing at Alamance Community College. This column publishes the first Wednesday each month. If you have news of a wine event, email williamsonwine@aol.com If you'd like to subscribe to our free twice-monthly wine email newsletter, visit www.news-record.com and sign up under email alerts.