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"Oops, I think I made a mistake."

The weather was hot, and Barbara had expressed a desire to sit inside. But she made the remark spontaneously when she looked out onto the covered terrace.

If weather is inclement or if you just prefer air conditioning, seating for meals at the Childress Winery is provided in a large interior space, decorated in Bordeaux-Tuscan style, with a large winery mural on the wall.

My second choice would be the balcony tables, which provide a view into the wine-making facilities. But the best locations are on the terrace overlooking the vineyards where the view transports you from North Carolina to California in a glance.

These facilities are spectacular, with lots of stone and sculptured landscaping. The tasting room, which sells clothing, wine accessories and décor, has been ranked by national magazines as one of the best in the nation.

An outdoor music facility stands in front of a lake, with vineyards surrounding. Banquets, weddings and other large gatherings are quite popular here. The winery also hosts music events and parties, celebrating new releases or other occasions related to promotions of the wines. (Visit www.childressvineyards.com for a schedule.)

I visited the first time in spring, for the white wine release party. A series of food stations provided tapas-size plates, along with a matched wine. (A similar event occurs on Thursday evenings during summer.) My wife and I so enjoyed the experience, we decided to return for Sunday brunch. (Lunch is served every day.)

The Sunday brunch buffet costs $20, including one glass of Childress wine. Additional wines by the glass are priced from $5 to $7 and bottles from $10 to $18 in the restaurant.

I especially like Trio (a light, white, summery blend), Cabernet Franc (a soft red that matches most foods well) and Pinnacle (a red blend). I'm looking forward to sampling more Childress offerings. If you are interested in exploring further, the tasting room provides several options, starting at $5. Bottle prices for limited releases can go as high as $50.

At brunch, the first buffet station provides hard rolls and small bagels, along with cream cheese and jams and jellies. Salads follow: artichoke and baby corn; zucchini, carrot, yellow squash and green beans; hot peppers; and macaroni with black olives and carrots.

All of these were enjoyable, especially the artichoke. Smoked salmon with lemon slices, chopped onion, capers and cream cheese beckons shortly thereafter. This marries well with a leafy greens salad, joined by carrots, cucumbers, chopped tomatoes, red onion, croutons and shredded Parmesan cheese, with a good balsamic vinaigrette dressing.

Entrées include Chicken Pot Pie, containing tender white and dark meat, with soft-cooked ziti pasta, carrots, pearl onions and green peas; Roasted Rib Eye with horseradish sauce; Country Ham with buttermilk biscuits; Quiche, hosting chorizo sausage, Monterrey Jack cheese, onions and green peppers; and large shrimp, deveined and steamed in beer. I enjoyed all of these, but the roast beef made an especially good impression -- better quality than usually found on buffets.

Scalloped potatoes with smoked bacon, green beans with carrots and julienned yellow squash, flavored with dill, are the vegetables -- another solid performance from the kitchen, especially so in a buffet setting. A display of cheeses surrounds a brie wheel, along with grapes.

Patrons with a sweet tooth should be well-satisfied. Warm cheese blintzes with blueberry sauce, bran and corn muffins, and Danish pastries can be picked up toward the end of the meal. Around the corner, a dessert bar tempts you with two kinds of cheese cake (creamy-textured), chocolate fudge cake, ice cream and apple cobbler.

To my taste at least, breads and desserts accommodated the meal rather than enhanced it. Not bad, just routine for our area. Service, within the self-serve, buffet concept, is attentive.

The winery enterprise grows out of a partnership between NASCAR team owner Richard Childress and Greg Johns of Johns Plumbing.

The chef is David Thomas, who came to Childress from The Trophy Room of Dale Earnhardt in Mooresville, where he managed all kitchen operations and staff for a daily buffet and a la carte menu for DEI's racing teams and was a personal chef for the Earnhardt racing family. He was a two-time winner in The Great Chefs of Charlotte Cookoff.

From Greensboro, the drive takes only about 45 minutes or less, and it's scenic all the way. I think this is a great way to spend an afternoon or evening.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 20 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com. To find his recent columns on the Internet, visit www.gotriad.com and click on Dining.