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And then there were none.

When I began writing the restaurant review column for what was then the Greensboro Record in July 1981, I identified several restaurants that to me set the standard for quality dining. The Elms, Franklin's Off Friendly and Giovanni's in Greensboro and Noble's in High Point led in fine dining. I thought that Liberty Oak and Southern Lights brought value into the equation, with a casual ambience and lower prices combined with food and wines that often matched or even exceeded the more expensive establishments.

As of this spring, all have either closed or so significantly changed as to be considered different restaurants. And yet, elements of these initiatives remain. The Elms closed altogether quite some time ago. Chef Rob Johnston returned to his home in New York, operated his own restaurant upstate for several years, then eventually returned to Greensboro. He currently manages and cooks at Smith Street Diner (438 Battleground Ave., Greensboro; 379-8666, www.smithstreetdiner.com), owned by Beth Kizhnerman, chef-proprietor of Bistro Sofia (616 Dolley Madison Road, Greensboro; 855-1313, www.bistrosofia.com).

Owner Bill Sherrill reconceptualized Franklin's Off Friendly from fine dining into a brew pub (which I liked, even after ownership changed later), then spun off a new, casual group of smaller restaurants featuring locally brewed beers. Although Franklin's is now closed, the local beers that originated there, produced by Red Oak Brewery (on I-40/85 in Whitsett), have expanded into a strong and growing force, distributed well beyond the Triad.

One of Franklin's managers, Dennis Quaintance, is now CEO of Quaintance-Weaver, developers of the O. Henry and Proximity hotels, along with their respective restaurants, Green Valley Grille and Print Works Bistro, plus Lucky 32 restaurant (1421 Westover Terrace, Greensboro; 370-0707, www.lucky32.com).

Giovanni Carandola moved to Myrtle Beach, S.C., where he retired, but the restaurant that bears his name still operates (5831 High Point Road, 852-8890, www.giovannisnc.net) under the helm of Robert Holden, who was cooking by Giovanni's side in the restaurant's heyday at the original location on West Market Street.

Jimmy Noble moved to Charlotte, where Zagat ranks his restaurant (6801 Morrison Blvd., Charlotte; 704-367-9463, www.chefjimnoble.com) one of the Best in America. He also operates The King's Kitchen, a nonprofit enterprise (http://healingfaith.org/kings_kitchen.html) that supports job creation, community development and Noble's ministry to troubled youths, rehabilitation graduates and others who need employment. The High Point property has been under the proprietorship of his brother-in-law Tim Applegate, and I have continued to award very high ratings to the current operation. The restaurant announced last month that relocation to a smaller property is under way. I look forward to the new venture.

I have credited Liberty Oak (100-D W. Washington St., Greensboro; 273-7057) with initiating the Triad's restaurant revolution. Originally established almost 30 years ago on Battleground Avenue, the restaurant's well-documented move coincided with and helped sustain the revival of downtown Greensboro. This spring, the last of the three founders, Walter Fancourt, sold the enterprise to local entrepreneurs Eddie Gramisci and Scott Rudolph, who have experience in the restaurant business. Many staff members remain. Maria Salakovic, another of the founders, operates Maria's (2130 Lawndale Drive, Greensboro; 379-8646, www.marias-to-go.com).

Also this spring, Peter Hamilton, founder of Southern Lights (formerly 105 N. Smyres Place, Greensboro), sold the restaurant to chef-partner John Drees, who has been heading the kitchen for many years. The restaurant is currently closed, pending relocation after the lease on the Smyres Place property expired in April. Hamilton is still majority owner of 1618 West Seafood Grill (1618 W. Friendly Ave., Greensboro; 235-0898).

So, the torches have been passed to a new generation.

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What have been the trends and qualities observed during this past reviewing year (July 2008-June 2009)?

The movement popularly termed "Farm to Fork" appears to be growing, as restaurants partner with local growers, enabling kitchens to prepare fresher vegetables and meats, as well as more seafoods caught or farmed in North Carolina. I recently spotted one of the Green Valley Grille chefs scouting the stalls at the Guilford County Farmer's Market (2914 Sandy Ridge Road, Colfax; 605-9157).

B. Christopher's (2461 S. Church St., Burlington; 222-1177, www.bchristophers.com) explains the concept on its menu: "This is real food, with no trans fats, hormones or pesticides. Our beef is corn-fed, our fish is fresh and line-caught, our chicken is free-range, and our produce is locally grown in season." Sweet Basil's (620 Dolley Madison Road, Greensboro; 632-3070, www.sweetbasilsrestaurant.com) vows, "Impassioned by local farmers, our menus feature organic and sustainably farmed foods served in Southern continental style."

The N.C. Department of Agriculture sponsors a statewide competition, "Best Dish NC," based on exemplary use of North Carolina ingredients. Carl Wilson's "Short Orders" column recently listed Triad area finalists: Ganache (403 N. Elm St., Greensboro; 230-2253), WS Prime (in the Marriott Hotel) in Winston-Salem, Bistro 42 (177 N.C. 42, Asheboro; 625-3663) and Yancey House (699 U.S. 158 West, Yanceyville; 694-4225). I am a judge, and I'll be letting you know my reactions later in the summer.

Alas, the other noteworthy trend this year has centered on coping with the recession. I wrote two columns in late spring about value menus (accessible at www.gotriad.com/dining). Those menus are evolving. I especially like how The Undercurrent (327 Battleground Ave., Greensboro; 370-1266, www.undercurrentrestaurant.com) has converted a $25 fixed-price menu into three separate courses, priced at $4, $8 and $13. Recent meals have been most enjoyable. In addition to the features described in the value menus column, Café Pasta and Grill (305 State St. A, Greensboro; 272-1308) has added a $25, three-course fixed-price menu every night.

1618 West Seafood Grill is offering early-bird specials, too. (I should have included them in the earlier value columns. This is one of my personal favorites. Apologies for the oversight!) Current offerings feature a choice of soup or salad (two each) three entrée alternatives (usually two seafood, one nonseafood), plus a dessert, for $14.95, available from 5:30 to 7 p.m. Sunday through Thursday. And I recently spotted a Giovanni's advertisement indicating entrees priced from $9 to $12.

I will repeat the advice I gave two months ago: At no time since I have been writing this column has food this good been available at prices this low. Please take advantage of these opportunities and support these restaurants' efforts. I'll see you in one or another, as many nights as my waistline and wallet can manage!

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 20 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com. To find his recent columns on the Internet, visit www.go triad.com and click on Dining.