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Andy Hopper and his wife, Bennet Cornwell Hopper, former Greensboro residents, operate Chefs 105, along with partners Kevin Brighton and Mike Santos. This team originated during college years at East Carolina University. Chefs 505 in Greenville, where Chef Hopper also worked, is considered a "sister restaurant," and the restaurants' Web site references both properties. Prior to opening Chefs 105, Chef Hopper cooked at Spiaggia in Chicago and the Four Seasons in Scottsdale, Ariz.

Ambience grows out of a Morehead City waterfront location. Patio seating looks right across the street to the charter fishing boat slips. Indoors, brick and plank walls from this historic, renovated building are adorned with local art.

A wood-fired grill gives this place a great aroma. To that initial, positive impression, add crusty cracked wheat sliced bread on one visit, grilled sourdough with olive oil most recently. A large selection of quality wines as well as appetizers is offered at half price on Thursday nights.

Local Seafoods Ceviche ($9) won honors at the Beaufort Food and Wine Festival and the Newbern Iron Chefs competition. This is a real winner in my book, too. Shrimp, scallops, and lump crabmeat are "cooked" in fresh lime juice, their flavors delicately complemented by a blackened tomatillo salsa.

Two and a half whole shrimp (I wonder where the other half went!), split, gently infused with the flavor of natural wood smoke, made up my serving of Wood-Fired Grilled Carolina Prawns ($10). Overcooking on a grill like this is terribly easy; compliments to the kitchen for getting these just-right-tender. They perched alongside a pancetta and cannellini bean ragout. I would make a trip here just for the white beans in that ragout. The kitchen ought to consider adding cassoulet to the menu in the fall.

In Bacon Wrapped Scallops and Chorizo ($12), three large diver scallops in crisp bacon are presented over a creamy polenta cake with rustic tomato sauce, the plate laced with balsamic syrup. Yum.

I found main courses just as enjoyable.

The Wood-Grilled Burger ($12) seems pricey, but it is based on Certified Angus Beef plus as many toppings as you want, which ameliorates my misgivings somewhat. I chose applewood smoked bacon and cheddar pimiento cheese; both showed high quality. The meat revealed solid depth of flavor from within a thick, juicy patty, with overall texture enhanced by toasting the interior of the bun, all augmented by romaine lettuce and a ripe tomato slice. Parmesan herbed pommes frites are the skin-on variety of French fries, dusted with fresh Parmesan cheese. They taste great, although the kitchen had added too much salt for my taste.

Ashley Farms Chicken ($16) is slow roasted, exhibiting a crisp, dark skin on the outside, hot and moist throughout inside. Olives, yellow and red cherry tomatoes, haricot vert, plus mashed potatoes are the vegetables. Grilled Wild Salmon ($24) proved especially tender, lightly sprinkled with sea salt and cracked pepper, surrounded by smoked tomato bacon vinaigrette. Firm Brussels sprouts and a melted leek and goat cheese risotto rounded out the conception.

105 Shrimp and Grits ($20) presents six large, sautéed NC green tails, deveined, in coarse, rich pimiento cheese grits with sundried tomatoes and lots of crisp apple wood smoked bacon, ladled with a saffron lobster broth. I considered this an exceptional example of the genre.

Marcona (from Spain) Almond Crusted Local Yellow Fin Tuna ($25) stacks two large slices -- no gristle evident -- coated with black and white sesame seeds and seated in a soy and brown butter reduction, over orange glazed carrots and snow peas. The sesame, soy and butter flavors marry exceptionally well with the taste of tuna.

Chefs 105 seems to draw a local bar crowd as well as enthusiastic fishermen who appeared to be coming over from across the street. They can be pretty loud, bordering on raucous, occasionally. That's because they are enjoying themselves, just as I did. But if serene fine dining is your goal, this might not be your first choice.

I also had mild misgivings about service. During our visits, personnel seldom described specials correctly, if they mentioned them at all. Deliveries, however, were prompt, and everyone was pleasant.

So, if you feel the need to get in touch with your inner Parrot Head, Chefs 105 should be highly appealing. Definitely recommended.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 20 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420. E-mail: john.e.batchelor @gmail.com. Visit gotriad.com and click on Dining for previous columns.