When chef Carlos Brown took his wife, LaShawn, home to his native Charleston to meet his mother, LaShawn struggled to understand the Lowcountry Geechee that Brown's family slipped comfortably into. Brown had to translate for her. Then Brown urged LaShawn to try some of his mama's okra soup.
"Uh-uh, I don't eat okra!" she told him.
But Brown convinced her to try some and she has loved it (over rice in the traditional way) ever since.
It's this kind of passion for his native cuisine that Brown has brought to the table of Gullah Gullah Cuisine (2801 N. Main St., Suite 113, High Point; 883-2009).
"A lot of my cuisine comes from mama and grandma," says Brown, a graduate of Johnson & Wales University who has been catering Lowcountry dishes since moving to High Point four years ago and has cooked for many celebrities, including Jim Carey, Tyrone Corbin, Arnold Palmer and Donald Trump. "I want people to feel like they are in Charleston," he says.
But don't expect a rustic marsh-side shanty. Gullah Gullah Cuisine offers a linen-and-fine-silver experience.
"Gullah is not a recipe; it's cultural cooking," says Brown, who says he learned from working under noted Charleston chef Louis Osteen that a culture's food is a cuisine and therefore can be considered fine dining.
Brown brings a classic French sensibility to Lowcountry-inspired dishes, such as Rosemary Grilled Chicken Breast with Currant White Wine Cream Sauce ($12); John's Island Herb Roasted Chicken ($18); Savannah Blue Cheese Grilled Salmon Filet ($18); Myrtle Beach Black Pepper Crusted Rib-eye ($23); and even Charleston's famous Shrimp and Grits ($16). Brown makes all of his French-influenced sauces to maintain consistency.
Many of Brown's side dishes (Christine's Braised Collard Greens, Delores' Fried Candied Yams, Leroy's Sweet Tata Hash) are named after the people and family of his home.
Appetizers, soups and salads include Fried Green Tomatoes with Wadmalaw Remoulade Sauce ($7), Mt. Pleasant Shrimp Fritters ($8), Gullah Gullah Seafood Gumbo ($5 cup, $7 bowl) and Cucumber Salad with Spicy Fried Oysters ($10).
Round things off with Charleston Gourmet Bread Pudding ($5), Summerville Vanilla Fruit Tarts ($6) and Fresh Merry Berries with Bandy Creme Fraiche ($6).
In addition to smaller portions of several of the dinner items, Gullah Gullah offers a lunch menu that also includes Magnolia Garden Salad ($8), Grilled Pears with Spinach ($7) and Fried Shrimp Po' Boy ($8) with Remoulade Sauce.
A sculpture of a pineapple, long a symbol of hospitality, greets visitors.
"When you give hospitality, it brings out the good in food," says Brown. "Whatever is inside of you, it comes out. I cook with joy. That's what they're tasting."
Gullah Gullah is open for lunch 11 a.m.- 2 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and for dinner 5-9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and 5-10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Sunday hours are 2-7 p.m.
Cornbread and jazz
Where are you going to find a menu offering lots of homestyle eating with a heaping helping of live jazz? For Triad residents, look no further than Le Divan Restaurant and Jazz Lounge (3793 Samet Drive, Suite 180, High Point; 471-9100).
"It's a little nicer than your grandma's house, but you're eating her food," says manager Kimberly Sutphin.
Inspired by the jazz clubs he visits in New York, owner David Pate wanted to create a place where he could combine his two loves: jazz and homestyle comfort food.
Pate, a first-time restaurant owner, brought in Sutphin, a veteran of the local restaurant and nightclub scene for more than 20 years, to help create his vision. That includes a bar lit in cool ice-cube blue with a top designed to look like a piano keyboard, a cascading mirror fountain and four deep custom-built booths christened with the names of jazz greats such as Ella Fitzgerald and Dizzy Gillespie.
Inspired by a sculpture she once saw, Sutphin created a similar honeycombed sculpture to double as lighting over the restaurant's stage.
"The whole place is kind of art," says Sutphin.
The experience begins with a bowl of complimentary cornbread as soon as patrons are seated. Chef Chris Heacox is a 23-year veteran (Stella's and J. Edwards in Lexington) and has created a menu that includes Smothered or Barbecued Pork Chops ($14), Oven Fried Chicken Breast ($13), Ribeye Steak ($17), Blackened or Lemon Pepper Catfish ($14), and even Meatloaf ($12) or Chicken Pot Pie ($12).
Some of Heacox's recipes have appeared in North Carolina artist Bob Timberlake's cookbook.
Sides include baked macaroni and cheese, candied yams and turnip greens.
"It's home cooking meets Soho," says Sutphin.
An early bird menu of smaller portions is $8 to $10 and offered 5-7 p.m. Saturday.
Other specials include half-price wine bottles on Wednesday and 20-cent wings and drink specials on Thursday.
Divan is French for couch, and you'll find eight of these for relaxing with one of the restaurant's signature martinis (Big Dizzy Apple, Bikini, Cucumber and Cosmic Sorbet rimmed with the cult candy Pop Rocks) while enjoying the live Friday and Saturday night jazz. Tuesday night is open mike for vocalists and spoken words.
If the jazz inspires you to dance, no problem. The restaurant's tables are mounted on sliders so they can be easily pushed aside to create an instant dance floor.
For now, Le Divan is open evenings 5-10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Sutphin says the restaurant will open for lunch later this month.
Italian restaurant moves
Carmine's Italian Restaurant (772-9884), which closed a couple of months ago in downtown Greensboro, has been resurrected at 1720 Battleground Ave. in the former space of The Underground, this time with veteran Peter Kourtsounis as executive chef.
Carmine's, owned by Rocco Scarfone (Much, Heaven, Zen) and named after his late father, offers Italian pasta such as linguine with White Clam Sauce ($13), Gnochi with Sunday Gravy and Ricotta ($13), Rigatoni in Vodka Sauce ($13), Carmine's Lasagna ($12) and Mama Scarfone's Spaghetti and Meatballs ($12).
Other classic dishes include Chicken Parmesan or Marsala ($14), Chicken Cutlet with Hot and Sweet Peppers ($15), Veal Picatta ($17), Carmine's Original ($27), a wood-grilled beef tenderloin served over spinach and garlic mashed potatoes. Wood-grilled salmon on a cedar plank ($17) and fish of the day are also offered.
Carmine's offers a selection of gourmet flatbread pizzas, including Spinach Ricotta and San Marzano Tomatoes, Salami and Mozzarella, Grilled Barbecue Chicken and Giacomo's Hot Italian Sausage and Goat Cheese. Or build your own pizza with a variety of fresh, traditional toppings. Pizzas range from $10 to $14.
Finish the meal off in style with a table-side flambeed dessert.
For a more traditional Italian experience, Carmine's offers family-style meals for parties of four or more. Each dinner ($19.95 adult, $9.95 ages 12 and younger) includes a choice of two antipasti (Meatballs with Pomodoro, Calamari, Fried Mozzarella, Steamed Mussels, Eggplant Stack), a choice of salad, a choice of two pastas, a choice of two entrees and a choice of two desserts (Tiramisu, Cannoli, Cheesecake of the Day, Homemade Gelato).
Prime rib is served on weekends. Kids eat free on Wednesday.
For after dinner or for a relaxing drink, The Underground still lives as the lower level bar and lounge area of Carmine's. The Underground offers large-screen televisions, DJs and live bands.
Carmine's sensuous patio is open nightly and offers intimate cabana-style dining. It offers a full menu, an outside bar and is heated on cooler evenings. It is available to business gatherings or large parties.
Carmine's hours are 5-10 p.m. Tuesday and Wednesday, 5-11 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.
New name and celebration
There's a lot going on at Lucky 32 Southern Kitchen (1421 Westover Terrace, Greensboro; 370-0707) and for good reason. The restaurant celebrates 20 years this month.
Along with a makeover, the restaurant's new name reflects the restaurant's Southern-influenced menu, featuring entrees with a choice of two or three popular Southern sides ranging from collard greens to creamy grits.
And starting today through June 20, chef Jay Pierce is bringing back some of Lucky's classic dishes, including Coconut Shrimp, Pan Fried Crab Cakes, Chicken Santa Fe, Hawaiian Beef Medallions and Grilled Portobella Mushroom Sandwich. Patrons can mix and match menu items to create a three-course dinner for $20. Add three glasses of wine to the meal for a total of $32.
There's also a drawing each day through the celebration for door prizes and a shot at a grand prize. For information, visit www.lucky32.com.
Contact Carl Wilson at 373-7145 or cwilson@news-record.com
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