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It's a busy night at Southern Lights Bistro & Bar, and Marygrace Llewellyn has been doing what's she's done nearly every Friday night for almost 17 years: taking food and beverage orders, consulting with the bartender, busing tables and pausing to chat with familiar faces.

Then, in the middle of a conversation she says, "I just realized this is my last Friday night."

The weight of that remark is not lost on other staff, on many of the dozens of folks dining on grilled jumbo scallops and seared Ahi tuna, and certainly not on John Drees.

Yesterday, Southern Lights closed the doors for the last time at 105 Smyres Place in Greensboro.

After nearly 24 years, owner Peter Hamilton is stepping aside and letting partner Drees take over the restaurant. With the lease up at the end of April, Drees has decided the time is right to move the restaurant.

But it's a bittersweet transition. For many, 105 Smyres Place has been like home for a long time.

"It's sad," says Llewellyn. "I've seen first dates here. I've seen last dates."

"This is where our children grew up," says Vicky Borden, who is dining with her husband, Bob, and another couple, Tom and Carolyn Duncan. "We come here two or three times a week."

"Every anniversary, we always ask, 'Where to you want to go?' and we come here," says Carolyn Duncan.

The restaurant has been a favorite among critics, evident by the framed reviews hanging on the wall near the entrance.

"We have lots of friends with the servers," says Lynn Neese, enjoying beers with her husband and friends while they wait on their order.

"John Drees was in my wedding," friend Jennie Groome-Willetts laughs.

Suzanne Bolton has been frequenting Southern Lights for 17 years.

"We were going to go somewhere with a patio tonight," says Bolton, who has just finished a meal with friend Adam Team. "But then we decided to come here."

"We feel like they are friends of ours," says Michael Johnson.

"We've been to all the spots in town, but we always come back here," says his wife, Linda Johnson, as they enjoy a glass of wine at the bar while waiting on a table. The two have been diners a couple of times a week for almost 15 years.

"Our customers have ownership of us. We know about their families. We know about their jobs," says Llewellyn, who adds that it's not unusual for her to attend the funeral of someone or meet the friend of someone who has been to the restaurant.

"Anybody who's anybody has passed through these doors," she says.

Patrons continue to fill the dining room as Drees pauses by tables to check on the meal or reminisce. A banner outside the restaurant says simply: Thank You!

But for Drees, this is not the end, but merely a new chapter. He has his sights on a new location he hopes to open in the coming months.

While waiting on a credit card to process, Drees chats with a customer about the move and muses, "Somebody once told me there's a fine line between bravery and stupidity."

"I'm sure that the new incarnation will be great in its own right," says diner Adam Team.

Most likely, few will disagree.

Greek restaurant to open

George K is back.

George Kourtsounis will be the chef for Opa! Taverna, a Greek restaurant set to open at 200 S. Elm St. in downtown Greensboro, in the former home of Metro Delistro.

Work has begun on the space to create the feel of a Mediterranean courtyard. Kourtsounis says Opa! Taverna will serve reasonably priced traditional Greek foods for lunch and dinner along with a selection of beer and wine.

Kourtsounis, who sold George K, his longtime restaurant and banquet space off Holden Road, says he will also offer some of his signature dishes.

Look for Opa! Taverna to open in the next few weeks.

Two Sunday brunches

The first of this season's strawberries are starting to ripen. These and other local ingredients have inspired a new Sunday brunch menu at Ganache (403 N. Elm St., Greensboro; 230-2253; www.ganachebakery.com).

Items such as Sunday Strata of eggs and Giacomo's Andouille Sausage, egg and cheese croissant, American Kobe Burger, Shrimp and Old Mill Grits and fresh sweet bread with Jeannine Chicken Salad are just some of the things on the menu served 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. each Sunday.

The rooftop patio is an excellent place to enjoy a Mimosa or Bloody Mary.

Sweet Basil's Restaurant (620 Dolley Madison Road, Greensboro; 632-3070; www.sweetbasilsrestaurant.com) is offering Sunday Jazz Brunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. each Sunday featuring "designer" bloody marys and music by The Dave Fox Group.

Eat out and help out

Tuesday is Serving Greensboro Together.

On that day, participating restaurants will donate ten percent of their total sales to Greensboro Urban Ministry to help fight hunger in Guilford County.

For a list of participating restaurants, visit www.greensborourbanministry.org.

A week of specials

With all of the specials restaurants are offering, there is no better time to dine out. And it just got better.

From May 1 through 8, nearly 20 restaurants will offer a three-course menu for $30. The initiative is called Restaurant Week.

Liberty Oak, Green Valley Grill, Print Works Bistro and Sweet Basil's are just a few of the areas participating restaurants. See a complete list at http://triadrestaurantweek. com.

Have restaurant news for Short Orders? Contact Carl Wilson at 373-7145 or cwilson@news-record.com.