I would not presume to try to tell anyone whether this is the time to buy stocks. But I can tell you that, financially speaking, this is a great time to have a meal in an area restaurant.
Local establishments are offering some strong enticements to encourage you. Here are reflections on value menus at three of our area's best restaurants.
Bistro Sofia
Bistro Sofia (616 Dolley Madison Road, Greensboro; 855-1313, www.bistrosofia.com) offers a three-course, fixed-price menu for $25 from 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and 5 to 6:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Wine pairings, if you choose, add $15.
First-course choices: a soup du jour; bistro salad of organic greens, applewood smoked bacon, tomatoes and a sherry vinaigrette; or a baby spinach salad with roasted beets and chevre, with a caramelized shallot vinaigrette. The fourth and fifth alternatives are homemade country pate with sweet and sour figs, cornichons, red onions and Dijon mustard; and chevre and fig terrine accented by a balsamic fig vinaigrette, served with a toasted hazelnut biscotti.
Entrées: My favorite is the roasted mushroom, spinach and caramelized onion tart with a grilled mushroom salad. Country lamb stew with turnips, carrots and potatoes is a winner, too. It's pretty easy to recommend the other selections, as well: Trout a la Meuniere with almond rice pilaf and haricot verts; grilled chicken paillard with warm potato salad, roasted peppers and capers; and grilled hanger steak, sauced with an herb veloute, joined by real French fries, plus haricot verts and baby carrots.
The Undercurrent
The $25 fixed-price menu at The Undercurrent (327 Battleground Ave., Greensboro; 370-1266, www.undercurrentrestaurant.com) is provided on Thursday and Friday evenings. Friday is also a no-corkage-fee night.
The meal starts with butternut squash and goat cheese terrine with pecan vinaigrette and honey-sage flatbread. Mellow flavors characterize the terrine; the vinaigrette is a jewel. This is followed by a risotto of preserved lemon and red onions, joined by asparagus wrapped in pancetta. The sharp accent of the lemon contrasts effectively with the onions, and the asparagus flavor is well-complemented by the pancetta. Mocha-rubbed beef tenderloin brochette is the final serving, accompanied by roasted corn, lime tomatillos, ancho aioli and chimichurri. My wife and I especially enjoyed these Southwestern flavors.
Marisol
Marisol (5834 High Point Road, Greensboro; 852-3303, www.themarisol.com) charges $30 for three courses. A wide range of choices is available, and the menu is available every night (Tuesday through Saturday).
Starters: A luscious buttermilk potato soup, accented with truffle oil and accompanied by crisp potato skins brought "oohs" from around our table. Flash-fried calamari is light, well-served by lemon, artichokes, arugula and a spicy olive aioli. Truffle gnocchi is exceptionally rich, with sage brown butter and shaved Parmesan cheese. A wedge and a Caesar salad are also available in this round.
Entrees: Pan-roasted quail is deeply flavored in its own right, extended by a shiitake mushroom and marsala chicken stock reduction. A seared diver scallop is large and tender, accented by a citrus and herbed olive oil emulsion. Grilled jerk spiced Kuraboto pork tenderloin comes with pineapple cilantro salsa. Sauteed trout with dill and Dijon white wine chicken stock and cream sauce is the fourth choice.
Desserts: carrot cake and chocolate bread pudding with buttermilk ice cream, tiramisu soaked in Bailey's Irish Cream and Tia Maria, and a selection of sorbets or ice creams, served with a strawberry sauce and a cookie.
These menus provide screaming bargains. The dishes I tried in all three locations were not only good, they were among the most enjoyable I have had. Restaurants such as these change specific offerings often, so the exact items on the fixed-price, discounted menus may vary in the future. High Point Market approaches late this month (April 25-30), and these menus will likely be suspended for that week. But before and after that time, these opportunities get my highest recommendation. Call ahead or look at announcements on restaurant Web sites to check what is available.
A second value-menu column will appear next month (May 7).
John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 20 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com.
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