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More than 25 years ago, a small number of area restaurants served excellent food, but in formal, expensive concepts. Southern Lights' owner Peter Hamilton was one of the local restaurateurs who brought the concept of quality dining at reasonable prices to the Triad. The concept "took," and Southern Lights established one of the most loyal followings in our area.

Such devotion is well-deserved. You seldom find better food at any price. To that, add a wait staff that is thoroughly versed with regard to both food and the well-chosen wine offerings, the kind of people who not only help you enjoy your meal, they can easily become your friends. The ambience is casual-one L-shaped room flanked by a bar area, which, effective with the New Year, became nonsmoking.

Shortly after seating, guests receive a warm, crusty, sliced baguette. I would guess Vie de France or a similar product.

The menu is divided into a set selection of salads, burgers and sandwiches, plus a frequently changing insert of more serious appetizers, soups and entrees.

Sandwich and entrée prices include a pasta salad or small side salad of green leaf lettuce, carrots, green peas, red cabbage and sliced zucchini. I am especially fond of the mellow blue cheese and balsamic vinaigrette dressings (all are made in house).

Pawley's Wrap ($9.95) is based on tilapia, one of the few occasions when I actually tasted fresh fish when this is the main ingredient, along with a good, crisp crust. The Reference Burger ($7.50) features a large, moist, flavorful patty, hosted by an onion roll that imparts good flavor of its own. A choice of cheeses is led by quality cheddar. This is one of my top-ranked burgers.

A starter from the menu insert, Crab Dip ($9.95), a foundation of blended cream cheese hosted large lumps of crabmeat and sliced artichoke hearts, along with clipped green onion and diced red pepper laced with balsamic syrup. Pita chips are toasted and served warm.

A Crab Cake ($11.95) encloses pleasantly-flavored lumps, inside a lightly browned exterior. This is served alongside a date and caramelized onion goat cheese tart, drizzled with balsamic glaze and chive oil. The tart is luscious, and its flavor is especially well-matched to an oven-roasted tomato with herbs on the side. Management might consider separating the crab cake from the tart; either is worth a visit all by itself.

As good as these are, I regard the Scallops ($11.95) appetizer as the best first course of my visits. Two large, grilled sea scallops flank a cheddar and scallion corn muffin in the center, surrounded by a peppercorn cream sauce. A black-eyed pea and tomato salsa rounds out the presentation.

A cup of soup also is available with entrees. My wife and I tried two. Tomato exhibits a creamy texture and deep flavor, while Basil Tasso Ham and Black-eyed Pea exudes a smoky taste from the ham. Both of these would be welcome on a chilly evening.

A large, green, Roasted Bell Pepper ($13.95) half is stuffed with slightly peppery risotto, filled with ground andouille sausage and chopped shrimp. A chutney of red onion, red pepper and pineapple perched alongside a small salad of leaf lettuces, lightly sprinkled with chipotle oil.

Ahi ($22.95) arrives in a large portion, the tender, glowing red tuna (no gristle) coated with black and white sesame seeds stacked over white and wild rice, resting in a soy based broth. A vegetable medley includes green pepper, red onion, broccoli, zucchini, red onions and yellow squash.

In Pan-Seared Grouper ($27.97), a slightly crusty exterior gives way to an interior that is exemplary for fresh flavor. A fried risotto cake joins asparagus and a grilled portobello mushroom relish, drizzled with basil oil and a balsamic glaze.

Beef Tenderloin ($28.95) is as tender as I have encountered. Good depth of beef flavor is enhanced with an andouille cream sauce with chopped mushrooms along with a topping of blue date butter. A potato cake alongside oozed flavor from a feta and blue cheese and onion blend, encased within a crisp exterior. Grilled asparagus spears are stacked vertically over the meat.

Our server described seven desserts, four of which were chocolate. We chose Lava Cake ($5.95) and savored an almost liquid center, topped with whipped cream and laced with raspberry syrup.

Regular readers are aware that I have been "re-norming" ratings gradually, since this column, which addresses finer dining experiences, was separated from the casual dining column, published on alternate Thursdays. Southern Lights provides an opportunity to center the process. It defines the 3 Star rating-excellent food, a knowledgeable wait staff, well-chosen wine and beer selections, all at reasonable prices in a casual setting. A 3 Star rating should not be interpreted as "average." On the contrary, it is the cut point that defines the type of restaurant I am most likely to attend when I am not reviewing. As Southern Lights illustrates, ratings at this level often portend longevity, because these restaurants are easiest to enjoy, from both a culinary and financial point of view.

John Drees, who has been a key element in the restaurant for a long time, became partner-manager with Peter Hamilton several years ago. The other manager, Janna Swartz, has a hospitality management major/business minor degree from UNCG. Chef de Cuisine Jonathan Wheeler started at Southern Lights about six years ago as a dishwasher. He came up through the ranks in the kitchen, then subsequently moved over to Southern Lights' sister restaurant, 1618 (4 Stars; 1518 W. Friendly Avenue, 235-0898), Southern Lights' fine dining colleague, where he cooked with Chef George Neal. Sous Chef Matt Adams went to C.I.A. and cooked in Charleston, S.C., then worked for Brad Semon at The Painted Plate Catering (230-2433, www.paintedplate.com) - highly recommended, by the way - before moving to Southern Lights.

I am pleased to number myself among this restaurant's devotees.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 20 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420 or send e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com.