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I have been following Chef Scott Leard from his early days at Pinot's (RIP), an especially rewarding term at Southern Roots (RIP) and most recently, albeit briefly, at Carmine's. Now, he holds forth from the small, open kitchen at Basil's Trattoria (not related to any other restaurants of similar names), a small, very casual, one-room affair in Kernersville.

From the outside, this appears to be a take-out pizza parlor. Inside, it still looks that way. But make no mistake about it, the food that reaches the table consistently ranks in the top echelon for quality, flavor and value, frequently for presentation.

Wine selections seem to be a work in progress. Most have been held to a mid-$20 price point, and most are available by the glass. You might consider asking for a little taste before you order a full portion of something you don't recognize.

I was ecstatic when the bread basket arrived: Parmesan-walnut slices from Simple Kneads. That delight continued as members of my party delved into first courses.

Roasted Mushroom Soup ($6) arrived steamy-hot, its aroma a prelude to the earthy flavors within. Four small toasts enclosed Mozzarella in Carozza ($10) with stewed tomatoes - an Italian cheese and tomato sandwich, in essence.

The monster Meatball ($8) is made in house, enhanced with a rich, basil-inflected pomodoro and Parmesan sauce. Eggplant Short Stack ($10) is layered with sliced mozzarella cheese and baked tomatoes and flanked by a small salad of arugula and leaf lettuces dressed in balsamic vinaigrette, along with a risotto cake.

Large, Pan-Seared N.C. Shrimp ($10) with prosciutto, mushrooms, roasted tomatoes and spring onions in a Parmesan and chardonnay wine cream sauce over creamy polenta produce some of the richest flavors I have encountered. On any visit, this starter is essential.

Entrée prices include a large, serve-yourself salad bowl that is circulated around the table, enhancing familial ambience. Mixed leaf lettuces, kalamata olives, arugula, carrots and fresh croutons are dressed in a light vinaigrette. On one occasion, forks and plates had been chilled.

Most pastas are available in half portions. Spaghetti and Meatball ($8/half, $15/full) repeated that large meatball, ladled with a richly flavored tomato sauce. A winner. A large scoop of ricotta cheese perched atop a serving of Angel Hair Bolognese ($9/half, $14/full), with grated fresh Parmesan added. Comments around the table characterized the ricotta as excessive; it was judiciously removed. But the meaty tomato-Bolognese sauce tasted good; I would rank it in the upper midrange among Triad restaurants.

In Linguine Shrimp Fra Diavolo ($9/half, $17/full), large, tender, deveined jumbos, their tails removed, exuded an excellent natural shrimp flavor, enhanced by a spicy (crushed tomato-based) fra diavolo sauce. A spicy San Marzano tomato sauce (the tomatoes are grown in Italy and are widely considered the best in the world) with red bell peppers, caramelized onions and lots of fresh basil hosted Rigatoni with Giacomo's Hot Italian Sausage ($17).

Nonpasta entrees are based on chicken breast, nicely browned in each case.

A light, sweet Marsala wine accent characterizes Chicken Marsala ($15), which comes with a side of spaghetti with tomato sauce. Chicken Picatta ($15) struck us as unusually flavorful, with a just-right lemon-caper accent infusing tender meat. A creamy Parmesan polenta hosted the main ingredient, adding depth of its own.

Chicken Trattoria ($15) simmers the main ingredient with red bell peppers, San Marzano tomatoes, garlic, fresh basil and extra virgin olive oil over creamy polenta. Two hot peppers were included in my portion, imbuing the liquid with a touch of fire.

Portion sizes are substantial. I predict most patrons will eat twice from each visit. Based on flavor alone, these entrees could have earned a rating of 4 stars. I awarded 3 stars on the basis of a limited range of ingredient alternatives (no meats, no seafoods other than a shrimp pasta).

Servers seemed earnest, and they were always cooperative and cordial. But confusion appeared in several ways. First, they did, then they did not take reservations. One time,

we had to wait for wine glasses to be washed before we received our order. When we did, bottles had already been opened in the kitchen. One server refilled a half-empty glass with a different wine. (I do not consider blending at the table a strong point.) Except for the latter faux pas, mis steps did not seriously interfere with enjoyment.

I will return as often as I can (the drive from Greensboro is brief and easy). I and unindicted co-conspirator Max termed Basil's Trattoria "the Italian restaurant I have been looking for."

Scott Leard began his career with Jimmy Noble, starting about age 16 in the kitchen of the original Noble's in High Point. Sous Chef Chip "Pirate" Williams is a Kernersville native; he formerly worked with Scott at Carmine's.

This new concept is perfect for the times.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 20 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com.