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This is a column I hoped I would not be writing but feared I might. To people who enjoy dining as much as my readers and I do, losing a favorite restaurant amounts to losing a friend.

Two weeks ago, I reviewed Grappa Grille. The next day, I received a message from Matthew Waterman: "I am writing ... in response to the review of Grappa Grille. Surely you know by now that Grappa Grille is closed down. I am certain that the review would not have been written (nor money spent on at least two or three visits) had it been known that they would be locking their doors."

Actually, I did not know. Readers often ask if restaurants know in advance if I am coming to review. No, they do not, but often they know after I've been.

Whenever I think a review will cause the restaurant to be busier than usual, I call them and tell them that a review is forthcoming, and I give them the date of publication. I also use this opportunity to do some last-minute fact-checking, regarding personnel, ingredients and other information pertinent to the review.

I had spoken to management and kitchen personnel at Grappa Grille the week before the review appeared, but, as (bad) luck would have it, the publication date was shifted forward, so I called them the Wednesday before the Thursday of publication to give them the new date. It was mid-afternoon, so I got a recording, which indicated not that the restaurant was closing, but that they were going to expand hours and start serving lunch that week. When I called on Friday, the day after the review was published, I got a recording stating that Wednesday had been their last night.

The voice was sad, and so was I. As the review revealed, I liked Grappa Grille quite a lot; our meals there were very rewarding, and I was looking forward to returning.

To that lament, I would add the demise of Muse just a few weeks earlier. I regret the loss of just about any restaurant. What is especially disturbing is that these were two that I had regarded as among our best.

The continuation of Waterman's communication expressed more of our shared concerns, along with some welcome, positive feedback:

"Your restaurant reviews are the first thing I look for on Thursdays, and I'm always happy when I can read one. Your observations and ratings are always fair and well-informed. What bothers me today is something I'm sure you have no control over. I feel like the printing of your review has discredited the Greensboro News & Record and, unfortunately, you in the eyes of some. How many people are going to call Grappa for reservations? In this awful recession we are trying to weather, I see more and more locally owned restaurants going belly-up. ... You've always raised the flag for these and other restaurants. In light of this bad timing with the review and Grappa Grille's closing, can anything be done to highlight these special, locally owned restaurants? ... I appreciate your reviews and everything you've done for the local food scene. ..."

Readers should note that each review includes a "date of last visit." I feel confident that information conveyed in my reviews is accurate as of that date. But the newspaper and I get unpleasant surprises from time to time, and this was certainly one of them.

What can we do to avoid more such shocks?

After the economic backlash that followed the events of Sept. 11, 2001, I wrote a column urging people to return to their favorite restaurants.

That was a time of fear. So is this.

But I believe that more serious financial and economic issues underlie this situation compared to then. Restaurants represent discretionary spending, and people are tightening up, with good reason.

Nevertheless, I am going to make a similar plea. Make an effort to support your friends and neighbors, and enjoy yourself a bit with an evening out. Just about every restaurant I have visited lately has either cut prices or added lower-priced items to the menu or both. Moreover, early-bird specials, reduced-price wines on particular nights and extended happy hours abound.

You can eat out now for less money than 10 years ago. I would not urge anyone to overspend in a time of real contraction, but I would remind everyone that a good meal at a good value makes life better.

I'll keep trying to help you choose through full reviews (older reviews can be accessed from the W eb site below), but instead of trying to compile a comprehensive list of all recommended restaurants, I'm just going to suggest getting back into any place you have enjoyed yourself.

Hope to see you there soon and reasonably often!

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 20 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to john.e.batchelor@gmail.com.