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From the Atlantic Ocean, deep, wide inlets gouge the northwest countryside of Spain, and a humid maritime climate oozes into the hills of Galicia. So abundant is moisture that grape growers train their vines as far from the ground as possible, weaving them atop high pergolas that create vast canopies of leaf, vine and grape.

Think of arbors here in the South, and you get the picture. Harvest is a different kind of back-breaker in Galicia, where pickers stretch high on heel to clip clusters.

High acid soils, dense leafs that shield grapes from direct sunlight, thick grape skins that guard against the humidity — all are a sure recipe for Albarino, a high-acid white grape some call "the wine of the sea."

Little wonder given the maritime history and economy of the Riax Baixas (pronounced Ree-ahs bi-Shahs) region of northwest Spain. In Galicia, seafood is king and Albarino its queen.

Across from me in Greensboro's Solaris restaurant, Mariola Varona Bayolo — export manager for Martin Codax — is weaving quite a tale of her homeland in a thickly charming accent. She barely takes a breath to sample the scallop and wine at her setting.

Which is a shame, because that plump scallop and the 2006 Martin Codax Albarino are perfect matrimony.

Albarino is relatively new to the U.S., popping up in the Triad only about three or four years ago.

The most recognizable brand of this obscure grape for American consumers is most likely Martin Codax, a winery supplied by a cooperative of some 50 growers tending 1,400 vineyards.

The co-op chose the name Martin Codax to honor the 13th century troubadour there by that same name who famously sang of wine, women and the sea. Think Jimmy Buffett and you get the picture.

Mariola's work is traveling the globe, introducing Martin Codax Albarino ($15-$17). We swirl, sniff and sip her wine. I tell her how Albarino is frequently likened to Riesling or Viognier, with its pear, apricot and apple scents. But to me, there is nothing off-dry here, as in Riesling, or unctuous and flower blossomy, as with Viognier.

To me, this Albarino is all about minerals and citrus and melon and peach. The high acids are checked by a secondary fermentation that layers a slight creaminess. There is no oak barrel exposure to gum up the works. Bracing, refreshing, palate cleansing — it's all that.

If someone cloned the best of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Traminette, the Albarino grape might be it. And with temperatures spiking 90, Albarino is certainly suited to season here.

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Round up the usual suspects. It's a favorite line from a favorite movie: "Casablanca."

I hate to flog the obvious but hate even more wasting wallet on come-hither labels that disappoint.

So when folks beg a recommendation, I turn to a short list of producers that deliver consistently, year after year, decade after decade, Cabernet to Merlot to Zinfandel to Chardonnay to Sauvignon Blanc to Riesling.

Agree or snort in derision. Here's what I buy when I'm on the spot:

$7-$8: Washington State has this price point nailed cold. Look for Columbia Crest Two Vines, Covey Run and Hogue.

$9-$10: Chile and Argentina is a hot niche. Concha y Toro's Casillero del Diablo line and Rosemount's Diamond Series are favorites down under.

$11-$12: Go West, as in California's Kendall-Jackson. Sure, KJ seems everywhere, but there's a reason.

$13-$16: Think chateau. As in Chateau Souverain (California); Chateau St. Jean (California) and Chateau Ste. Michelle (Washington).

$18-$26: DeLoach and Clos du Val of California. The first is Sonoma; the other Napa.

$27 and up: Mmm. Its Cordon Rouge champagne label makes guest appearances in Casablanca. But it's the California sparkling line that's solid — and less expensive.

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A till-we-meet-again newspaper party had me casting about for wine. My choices included the 2007 Dyed in the Wool Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand, $11) and the 2007 Smoking Loon Viognier (California, $10).

Both seemed met with hardy approval. A Chardonnay was left standing at the end. So there you go.

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Some recent finds close to home worth considering:

2007 Uwharrie Vineyards Muscat ($14): On the semi-sweet side, this riot of melon, citrus, pear, peach and flowers is a summer-sipping favorite. Muscat is one of the world's oldest varietals.

Uwharrie Vineyards — near Albemarle and about an hour west of Greensboro — is one of North Carolina's newest wineries.

2007 Grove Winery Traminette: ($15) This Gibsonville winery has made two styles of this kissing cousin to Gewurztraminer. The '07 is an off-dry version, bursting with peach, apple and spice. Grove is 25 minutes east of Greensboro.

2006 Rockhouse Vineyards Cabernet Franc: ($17) From that Rodney Dangerfield of grapes, this Cabernet Franc grown near Tryon offers decadent dark cherry, dried cranberry and a hint of bell pepper. Silky and medium bodied. If you're near Charlotte, it's worth a visit.

2005 Shelton Vineyards Cabernet Franc ($14): Black cherry, red cherry, strawberry and an earthy, leathery note at the end. This Dobson winery does well by this grape.

2007 Shelton Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc: ($16) Crackling grapefruit and green melon flavors and aromas make this light white perfect for the warm weather ahead. Grab it quick. It sells out fast.

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Some West Coast favorites:

NV Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs ($20): Fairly common to many wine lists because it offers good value. A sparkler showing apple, melon, cherry, toast and toffee. Always a good bet.

2006 Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare ($14): Playful name for a playful rose, crafted from Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Grenache Blanc. This eccentric California winery takes its blush seriously.

Nice strawberry and cranapple in a dry style.

2006 King Estate Pinot Gris ($14): The Pinot Gris grape does its best in cooler growing zones, so it's no surprise this Oregon producer turned out a beauty with pear, melon and lime accents. Pinot Gris is one of the world's most food-flexible wines.

2006 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir ($28): A middle-of-the-road Pinot from the Russian River Valley of Sonoma. Black cherry, herb and raspberry, this red has an echoing finish.

2007 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Gris ($20): From the same winery and appellation, here's Pinot Gris with gumption. Tropical fruit aromas give way to citrus, apple, melon and pear flavors.

This column publishes the first Wednesday of each month. If you have wine news, e-mail ewilliams@news-record.com at least 10 days prior to publication date.