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A trattoria is, more or less, a small, informal family-owned restaurant similar to a French bistro. The concept fits Rob and Tracy Lamothe to a T. It is why they opened Riva's Trattoria (257 N. Greene St.; 334-9989; www.rivastrattoria.com ) in downtown Greensboro.

"It's a dream come true," Tracy Lamothe says.

Tracy Lamothe has a background in accounting but has been cooking since she was a teen. She once prepared spaghetti and meatballs for 60 to 80 other teens at a summer camp. A two-year stint at the Greensboro Farmers' Curb Market selling coffee and pastries led her into catering events such as the furniture market in High Point.

But cooking for a couple hundred people left her yearning to own a small, intimate restaurant.

Intimacy is a way of life for the Lamothes. They live in a historic home just blocks away in the Aycock Neighborhood. They frequent the nearby Greensboro Farmers' Curb Market. They hold a "family dinner" with the restaurant's employees before opening each day to assess the night's reservations and allow staff to air grievances.

For Rob Lamothe, it was simply a mid-life crisis that left him wanting something more fulfilling. Days on the road as a senior consultant for an IT firm were taking their toll. He and his wife's schedules left them passing like ships in the night. And he missed his three children.

So, it's no surprise that the Lamothes approached their concept with the Slow Food Movement in mind.

Founded in Italy in response to the influx of fast-food chains, the Slow Food Movement is more than just buying locally. It's a lifestyle. It's taking the time to procure fresh ingredients. It's taking the time to prepare them. And foremost, perhaps, its about taking the time to sit down with others and eat the things prepared.

For Tracy Lamothe, it is part of her heritage. Her great-grandfather, Giovanni Riva , was from a primarily Italian town in Switzerland just across the border from Italy. She grew up with Italian dishes in the household.

Those dishes were ones such as Inner Harbor Shrimp With Pesto Cream ($18), Tortellini With Peas and Ham ($11), Chicken Picatta ($12), Tilapia With Lemons and Capers ($13), Rosemary-Garlic Pork Tenderloin ($15), Gemelli With Pesto ($8), Pasta Alla Riva's ($8) with seasonal vegetables and Furmano's Spaghetti and Meatballs ($8), featuring the family sauce recipe she has been preparing since that aforementioned summer camp.

Lunch includes many of the dinner pasta dishes at a discount and also features Panini sandwiches such as Prosciutto, Basil and Fresh Mozzarella ($7); Inner Harbor Shrimp Salad ($8); and Curry Chicken Salad ($6).

Riva's also offers salads with house-made dressings and a selection of Primi Piatti (a type of first course) that include Caprese ($6), fresh mozzarella, sliced Roma tomatoes and fresh basil; and Gambero Panino Piatto ($6), shrimp and white cheese grilled in flat bread.

House-made dolci (desserts) feature Chef Tracy's own Molto Biscotti ( $4), Tiramisu Classico ($6) and Piccolo Tart Trio ($4), mini tarts of hazelnut chocolate, amoretti cream and seasonal fruit.

The Lamothes shop regularly at the Greensboro Farmers' Curb Market and get items from other local farms such as Weatherhand, Minden Hill and Ward's.

Take-out is a traditional part of the neighborhood trattoria, and Riva's offers a take-out menu. But the restaurant seats only 49, so reservations are recommended.

Hours are 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday, 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Mexican grill opens

Carne and pollo asada and rib-eye steak are served fresh from the parilla, which is Spanish for grill, at Salsa's Mexican Grill and Taqueria (5535 W. Market St., Greensboro; 510-4538).

The Parrillada, a combination platter of grilled meats for two people that includes sirloin steak, chicken, chorizo, tripe and pork chop costs $24.95. A half platter for one is $12.95.

But there's more to Salsa's than the platters. Super Macho Burritos ($8.50) are loaded with a choice of grilled meat. The restaurant also serves tacos ($6.99-$7.50) and gorditas ($3.99), thick corn tortillas, both stuffed with a choice of grilled meat, including beef tongue and barbacoa (Mexican barbecue), quesadillas ($6.95) and fajitas ($6.95 for lunch, $10.95 for dinner).

Seafood dishes include fried tilapia ($9.95); ceviche ($8.95), fish sauteed in lime juice; and seafood soup ($12.95) of shrimp, clam, calamari, fish and vegetables.

Salsa's offers family and super family meals that include a choice of meat, tortillas, rice and beans.

And the best part, the tortillas are made fresh, right before your eyes, a la Biscuitville.

Salsa's offers desserts such as Tres Leche Cake and Xangos, a type of cheesecake.

Hours are 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Goodbye to a fine cook

As long as there are those who have time to invite someone to "sit for a spell" there will be home cooking. But there will never be another Frances Causey Holt .

Holt died May 28, and a memorial service was held for her Saturday.

Holt is best known as the proprietor of Fran's Front Porch, a farmhouse turned restaurant with a wrap-around front porch made for sitting and looking out at the surrounding green pastures in a southeast part of Guilford County.

Holt, a former cafeteria manager at Nathanael Greene Elementary School, opened the restaurant with her two daughters, Sylvia Belvin and the late Carolyn Beyer , in 1976 in the family's home.

For 28 years, Holt and her daughters served homemade yeast rolls, chicken pot pie and tasty desserts until closing the restaurant in June 2004.

Here's a raised glass of iced tea to Frances Holt.

Mexican bakery to open

A banner at 103 Muirs Chapel Road in Greensboro says that El Buen Gusto Bakery, Meat Market and Taqueria will open soon.

The building is the former home of Panizzo Bakery.

Summer menu offered

Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar (3342 W. Friendly Ave., Greensboro) is offering a Taste of Summer Menu featuring Bistro Sirloin, BBQ Salmon and Mixed Mushroom Salad, Smoked Pork Chop and Watermelon Sorbet. Cost is $32.95. Call 294-7790 for reservations.

Family meals to go

Entree Vous (1577-C New Garden Road, Greensboro), the make-ahead meal venue, is offering prepackaged Vacation Packs for families.

The heat-and-serve packages come in two versions: the four- to-six-person pack, which consists of four nights of complete meals for $189.99, and the eight- to 12-person pack, which has double the food for $379.99. Both offer considerable savings over a la carte pricing.

Call 790-8711.

Have restaurant news for Short Orders? Contact Carl Wilson at 373-7145 or carl.wilson@news-record.com.