The Haw and the Altamaha are two rivers that sound as if they might be cousins, sharing common traits such as arms and mouths. But they aren’t and they don’t.
Both, though, are the subject of recent books. Anne Melyn Cassebaum, a retired Elon University professor, is the author of “Down Along the Haw: The History of a North Carolina River” (McFarland & Co.: Jefferson and London; 2011, 240 pages, soft cover, $29.95). Janisse Ray, poet and environmentalist, is the author of “Drifting into Darien: A Personal and Natural History of the Altamaha River (University of Georgia Press: Athens; 2011, 256 pages, hard cover, $22.95).
The Haw rises as a seep in a Forsyth County woods near the intersection of Stigall Road and N.C. 150. It follows the slant of the land into Rockingham County, crosses a corner of Guilford County before traversing Alamance County into Chatham. It’s impounded in Jordon Lake, an important water supply for the Triangle.
Each of the two rivers in South Georgia, the Oconee and the Ocmulgee, that join to form the Altamaha, are bigger than the Haw. The Altamaha is a giant from the start, wide and deep.
The Haw runs 110 miles before it joins the Deep River to form the Cape Fear in Chatham County. The Altamaha cuts diagonally across the bottom third of Georgia, running 137 miles.
The Haw is a Piedmont river, filled with rocks and rapids, shooting its way through the rolling landscape. The Altamaha is a swampy coastal plains river, flowing slowly to the Georgia coast at St. Simons Island.
Interstate-40 crosses the Haw between Greensboro and Burlington. Interstate-95 crosses the Altamaha west of Darien, where it breaks into several channels forming Cathead Creek and the Butler, Champney and Darien rivers.
Both authors set about their books in much the same way, float trips from headwaters to end. Cassebaum used a canoe; Ray, a kayack. Each shared a similar purpose – a call to arms to save a threatened river. Yet the results are different in depth and tone.
Early in her book, Cassebaum is exploring on foot, with her dog Crook, a shallow, swampy area of the Haw in the vicinity of Oak Ridge. She watches two men approach. They live nearby. They had noticed her car parked on the shoulder of the road.
They tell her she should have asked for permission to be on the land.
‘“You should for your own protection.”’’
‘“I don’t know if you notice we come armed.’ Then I do notice the holster.” she writes. A recent robbery and shooting had them on edge.
On the first page of her book, Ray also recounts an encounter on a riverbank. She and her husband pull up at McRae’s Landing deep in South Georgia. Two men are hoisting a motor from a truck.
Her husband, Raven, always likes her to do the talking in situations where a Southern accent might head off any unpleasantness. She rolls down the window.
‘ “Howdy! Y’all seen any canoers this morning?’ “
That’s a key difference in these two fine books. Ray is a born and bred member of the river culture about which she writes and celebrates. Cassebaum, although she has lived near the Haw for more than 25 years, isn’t. She brings an urban and academic mindset to the Haw, shying away from sharing much of her personal life.
The book titles tell you of the different approaches. Cassebaum’s is a history; Ray’s a personal and natural history. Ray has written a much warmer and engaging book, and it is just as fact-filled and outraged as Cassebaum’s.
Curiously, a small unincorporated community near the Haw is named Altamahaw. It makes you wonder if there is a lost tribal connection between the two rivers. The rivers, though, are wildly different both physically and how people have used them.
Not so long ago, the Haw might have been the most polluted river in North Carolina. People couldn’t swim in it and neither could fish. Stretches of it could be blue one day and red the next. It stank. The water was toxic.
The Haw is the home of the Southern textile industry. Two mills began operating around 1880, a quarter mile apart. One was on the Haw in Alamance County, and the other on Reedy Fork Creek, a tributary of the Haw, Cassebaum writes.
Cassebaum at times interweaves the present with the past and the narrative sometimes gets a bit confusing. I’m not sure, for instance, of the name of the first textile mill, and I’d like to know. Maybe it’s in here somewhere, but that fact didn’t pop out at me. Anyway, the Haw quickly became in Cassebaum’s words “a cotton mill river.”
The gradient of the Haw was ideal for harnessing the river with dams to run the mills. Rapids on the Haw early on were referred to as “powers” and grist mills and sawmills dotted its banks before textiles arrived. The Haw watershed has an estimated 165 dams and the Haw itself is dammed in a number of places.
The dams and the textile mills ruined the water quality of the Haw. Today, though, stretches of the Haw are safe for swimming. Fish and other river life have returned. The federal Clean Water Act and the Haw River Assembly, which has its office on the banks of the Haw in Bynum, are largely responsible for the improvements. Cassebaum is an active member of the assembly.
The Altamaha, deep in rural Georgia, has never been dammed. It’s the largest undammed river in the Southeast, and perhaps the East Coast. The wild and sparsely populated landscape that it winds through has saved it from being dammed, Ray says.
But, like the Haw, it’s experiencing water quality degradation through runoff – nonpoint pollution – due to the destruction of the watershed forests that once protected it. This is a type of pollution extremely difficult to control. Along the Haw, housing developments are a big source of nonpoint pollution.
Again, like the Haw, the Altamaha has friends such as the Nature Conservancy, which is buying up land to protect the watershed.
Neither river, though, is out of the woods yet as these two books so solidly and eloquently document.